GlowForge and Dry Moly Lube!

Beyond the Manual
21

Welcome to the community!

I really like that tool labeling idea :sunglasses:

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22

It turned out great! Silly question. Did you mask it prior to engraving?

23

I did not.

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24

Hi all, I’m trying this on very thin (.032) stainless, first try warped at the settings mentioned above, anyone have experience with thin ss?

25

I warped .042" stainless steel by doing multiple passes. Putting a lot of heat into a limited area of a material that retains heat. The heat causes localized expansion. The material warps.
I don’t have a solution for you… maybe a heat-sink of some kind underneath?

26

I don’t have experience with material warping to the point of causing an issue, but as it’s obviously caused by heat, test with higher speeds, and/or lower power, and multiple passes, until you find something that works for your material.

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27

Hi folks,
I just wanted to share this information I found after searching the web for CerMark alternatives:

Why not to use Moly Lube:

What do you think?
And does anyone have used enduramark?

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28

Interesting. I would want to see some independent studies showing it to be problematic though. Never trust, entirely, the company selling the more expensive product to give the straight facts when it comes to their competition. :slight_smile:

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29

Well, their chemistry look right, which is enough for me to want to steer clear of it. I’ve not used eduramark, but cermark works great on brass.

30

Yeah the chemistry definitely gave me enough of a pause to put the dry moly up on a shelf with a mental warning label on it. I’m just not ready to spend the kind of money they want for cermark just yet. :slight_smile:

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31

If I was going to make a living working with metal, I’d probably spring for “the good stuff”… for an occasional gift or similar, it wouldn’t concern me.

They compare it to cutting PVC, but that produces far more vapor than marking thru a thin layer of dried moly.

32

Hi, that sounds reasonable.

I will make some engravings on Knifes for a local Royal Ranger Group.
So my tests with Moly were not in vain.

Thanks for you comments everyone.

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33

I just checked the MSDS for the CRC brand moly lube and it lists decomposition products of chlorine and hydrogen chloride. I think that I will lay off the moly lube myself.

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34

These setting worked BEAUTIFULLY. Thank you for putting in the time to dial them in.

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35

I believe cermark and similar products also have fairly high molybdenum (“moly”) content as well and they are supposedly safe for lasering

36

As in “f you do this you may be in need of mental attention”?

37

possibly. But more of a “eh… I need more info, but for now I’m just gonna go with it.” :smiley:

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38

Hi Everyone!
I’m pretty late to the party on this, but thank you!! This is great!
I used the settings dwardio suggested on these round pendant stamping blanks from Amazon (three coats of moly at full power / 150 / 450 lpi). WOW, is all I can say. It works so well!
I’m waiting for the last coat of moly on the reverse side of the pendant to dry so I can complete my project. I’ll post a photo when done.
What would I do without this brilliantly talented GF Community?!

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39

Hello my sweetness. I have a can of this stuff and I just read your post. Is Moly bad for the GF?

40

I’ve personally never seen proof that it is. But that’s just me. :slight_smile:

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