I think that is the catch. “Proof Grade” is industry standard. But “Proofgrade” can be registered.
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I’d be much obliged if you could point me to that term used elsewhere in reference to laser materials. I haven’t seen it.
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Sure Dan it’s used on epilogs site and in my manual for the fusion at work
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Not to be argumentative, but I couldn’t find any references to proof grade in the Fusion manual. The closest that I see is that it discusses metal grade.
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I have yet to find proof of this. Perhaps you would be so kind as to provide a photo? Or website link?
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ditto. Searching the epilog site for ‘proof’ and ‘grade’ returned zero hits:
https://www.google.com/webhp?q=site:epiloglaser.com+proof+grade
“proof” alone only has two references:
https://www.google.com/webhp?q=site:epiloglaser.com+proof
“grade” alone returns quite a few (but none in this context, IMO):
https://www.google.com/webhp?q=site:epiloglaser.com+proof
I’m not saying isn’t out there, but I can’t find it either…
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i called them to ask about the term when we first got our laser because i did not understand why a particularity supplier of say maple would be better than another except on prices.looking at their website it is different than before they have possibly stopped using the term or maybe i am nuts. but ill look throught the manual and find it. i had a deiscussion with my partner here and he said that he read it as well
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i did not mean to open a can of worms here. i was just trying to be helpful
to people answering questions.
im just not going to say anything any more if i find the passage ill post
it. but I am really uncomfortable with this.
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Don’t sweat it. One of the main reasons I tend not to learn jargon is that it can change in an instant.
And it does make sense that such a term has existed before. When you are having a client validate a product before starting major production, you “Send a proof” for them to examine. So calling some material “Proof Grade” would mean that it is already good enough for production in 99% of all cases.
Anyone who hasn’t been on the forums in the right places to see talk about the official Proofgrade product line would easily make the same mistake.
The masking which Glowforge is using on their proofgrade materials is pretty nifty. The stuff is rather low tack, so can rub off FAIRLY easy. But I still had some get stuck between the engrave lines with my nametag I cut at MakerFaire.
And since nobody has maintained a stock of Proofgrade sitting on a shelf for a few years… we don’t know if the over time tendency will be to adhere more firmly, or to flake off completely. So maintaining a longterm stock may not be advisable.
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Or, from the medieval days, “Armor of proof” meaning stuff someone has already tried to stick a sword through and failed…
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The place I have heard the term “proof grade” often in the past had to do with coin collecting.
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I will add that I bet that most of the uses of this are really a missing comma or dash from the word before (I think that is really temperature-proof - although that is an absurd term if you take it literally)
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Getting back to the original discussion…
, I am curious about all those boxes and other things that go together using mortise and tenon (?), alternating tabs, or dove tail joints. Do people slightly adjust the size or fit to account for kerf or charring (like MDF shown above)? - Rich
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Do a forum search on “compensating for kerf” there is a rich discussion on the subject.
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(buckle up)
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Have you tried Liquidmask. I wonder if that would work on finer detail. Or how dificult it would be to remove. Although again , like you mentioned, light sanding or shellac and wiping probably works. I saw online the mention of using vinegar to clear smoke stains from lasered piece - I tried it and results were terrible. Not sure what I did wrong, but it just smeared…
Anyways, I hope you stay in the forum - always good to have a current laser user/owner !!
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Rubbing (Isopropyl) alcohol also works. Either a wipe with a towel or a scrubbie will do it for most birch ply staining (if you’re getting too much to handle it may be you’ve got your power/speed settings off - too much power/too slow a cut). You do want air assist to keep the smoke from depositing on the material. Backside staining is a factor of power & the reflectance of the bed. Changing the bed style from a honeycomb to a pin or something else with less material to reflect (and a non-reflective base plate underneath that) will help.
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Drink up!
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When making box jointed projects that I want to look finished, I do try to make the “fingers” that extend past the surface a bit long. This lets me remove the burn marks mechanically (sandpaper, router, scraping, etc.).
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