How to add a rear passthrough slot to a Glowforge basic

SO I could get it out of the bathroom :stuck_out_tongue:

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I think the point is more: thatā€™s what a sawzall is for. Jigsaw is a bit small for a tub.

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ROUTER. :slight_smile:

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Wow, I followed the same path as you but the only jigsaw I used was my Dadā€™s crappy old thing. I thought all jigsaw were terrible. I decided to try (buy) a new Battery Dewalt. Wow what a difference. AND no cords to fumble with.

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Lol. That must have been something to see.

I would think about some sort of metal slide down (up?) that would block the odd laser flash if you were not using that opening at the moment much as they have these for the pro.
And these for the side to side that will also block air from making the openings too open.

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I was thinking a spring loaded door and a rubber ā€˜frameā€™ - first I gotta make the holes, then I will figure out how to block them :stuck_out_tongue:

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I was looking at the slot that you are cutting and was thinking about how I would do it. After you get it roughed out, what if you used some kind of Dremel tool with a coarse sanding sleeve in it to even up the edges. I would take a piece of wood laying in front of the slot to use as a guide to slide the Dremel tool on. This would provide a stable platform to make the slot. I use Dremel bits on a pneumatic tool that looks like a fat pencil. Good luck.

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Keep in mind that if you want to go ā€œspring loadedā€ the material needs to go in both directions. That is an issue with the regular pro when you are trying to go the opposite way from the rubber it can be very difficult and why I was thinking more brush than squeegee.

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Well, Iā€™m DONE with the roughing of the slot! - It was easier cutting out the bottom!
:LOL:

cleaning up, and then I will take some pictures.

Editors Note: Removing the two screws and Puling the (black lid cable) board upward (then duct tape it to cover) gave me enough ā€˜slackā€™ to cut around the area without worrying I would nick the PCB card

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Something for a clean edge?
https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Protective-Childsafe-Fireplace-Countertop/dp/B07DZSTTNT/ref=sr_1_19?crid=13OGEAGQ83W2C&keywords=edge+covers+for+furniture&qid=1648917922&sprefix=edge+cover%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-19

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i was ā€˜conceptizingā€™ (is that a word) something like two grooved bars (like a printer) for to guide the wood and keep it in position.

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Conceptualizing two foam rollers might do as well as they would seal against leakage and roll in either direction and spring-loaded on the top would work across a wide variety of thicknesses.

@rbtdanforth (making nose squish gesture) that ā€˜looksā€™ ugly in my minds eye.

:person_shrugging:

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Might want a sharper eye? :eyeglasses:
I was even thinking of replacing the rubber thing so I could use it at least in the back that could be more problematic. =====

Glue in some plastic U-channel thatā€™s used for FRP panel edging. Or aluminum U-channel even. Home Depot - $10/6ft.

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one of my options, nothing decided yet ā€¦

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