Here are the basic outlines, but there’s no kerf correction or anything. Depending on how you decide to build it, things might need to be broken up different ways. I can help with that when I know how you want to do it. 
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wow, that was super fast thank you. I plan to start this weekend. I see alot of people talk about the kerf correction then talk about scoring, since being new to this, is there a standard formula?
It’s kind of material-dependent. There’s a HUGE kerf rabbit-hole here on the forums you can get lost in. 
Basically, you enlarge your pieces a teensy bit, maybe .005" in each direction, to allow for what the laser cuts away. Then there’s the fact that the cuts have a tiny bit of angle to them, so flipping the inserted part and inserting it face down gives you a better fit.
For something this size, you could probably get away with not worrying about it, unless you’re just a super perfectionist (which does seem to be a common trait here – I’m looking at YOU, @evansd2!). In that case, I’d flip the artwork and cut things face-down to take advantage of the smaller kerf on the back of the cut (due to the afore-mentioned angled cuts).
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I wouldn’t even attempt this as a through cut inlay due to the three shared borders problem. Maybe as a veneer inlay.
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Yeah, if I were doing it I would inlay the wings/star thingy into the background and put a translucent U2 on top, I think. I kinda almost want to try it, except I don’t have the acrylic.
Or do the U2 in dark wood but raise it above the surface with standoffs.
Although the “shadow” effect would be kinda cool in acrylic.
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Yes! In fact I’d layer the whole thing and make my own brass pin standoffs to separate the layers so they’re not in your face - just 4 or 5 layers floating above each other. With a top layer that’s clear (with the brown being engraved) acting as a protective layer I’d engrave the outer black circle, stars and letters (from the back) and paint those. They’d hide the standoff pins for that layer too.
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Yea I think we should go with 10 inches. I like the idea of an inlay, but also layered. Where do you get those brass pins…Amazon the best place for it? Run to Michaels?
You don’t really need the pins if you’re just doing 2 or 3 layers. Plus they’d show if you’re going to use translucent acrylic.
For the letters and small stars, you can engrave them out of the layer underneath, and just glue them into the engraves. I usually run a score line around the engrave just to make sure the edges are crisp so the piece will fit in cleanly.
Ahh, I just saw you were replying to @jamesdhatch re: his brass pins idea, not to me (I was thinking of @evansd2’s amazing multilayer stacked boxes). He gets them at K&S Metals online, I think? Hobby stores (not craft stores, but the ones with model trains and stuff) usually carry them, too.
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Michaels, hobby lobby, etc also carry them, but they are often out of stock of one size or another. (maybe even ace hardware? I dunno, lots of retailers carry their products.) I would probably just order online. The 1/16" brass rods are great for this, because they cut and then sand flush with regular sandpaper. Aluminum is an option too, it’s soft enough that you could also sand that smooth.
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Huh, I could never find it at craft stores. Thanks for clarifying!
The last time I was at hobby lobby, the employees couldn’t either. They said “I don’t think we carry it”. I asked where they keep model kits, and it was right there. They were surprised to see it.
Lately, I’ve been using the pins to align the project as I glue the layers of my mandalas, and then pulling them back out to use in the next layered construction. It’s not so easy to just go to a retail store right now, and really once you’re glued up the pins aren’t needed anymore, so it’s just a waste to leave them in. I conceal the holes by manually gluing the final layer on, so there’s no way to tell.
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Ah. We didn’t have Hobby Lobby in the PNW. They’re a Southern Thing, I guess.
I like Ace. They have popcorn.
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Check Woodcrafters - they have them at my local store. But I’ve got a little mom & pop toy and hobby shop that the area’s model railroaders all use.
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McMaster-Carr has brass tubing - same as the K&S stuff. Telescoping & etc.
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In wood I find bamboo skewers quite useful however in acrylic, and since you are using a laser and not a drill, it is not so hard to use 1/8 slices of the same color scrap as pins you can set in square holes or even rectangular if you need the hold.
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I pour my own acrylics as well, i might be able to do something …this layering thing is sounding cool. Might have to make a few prototypes
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