yeah that’s why i suggested carefully replacing only the cells. the risk is minimized.
Well, since no one has waded into your question about how to sturdy up the legs for either this build or your next one, I figured I’d give a few ideas.
When I build worktables like this, I’ve typically joined all the four legs together with cross beams at the top (creating a square) and set the work table on top and screwed down from the top into the framing. I’ve then put a “shelf” about 6 - 10 inches off the ground to help get rid of racking (shaking from side to side as you work on the top). If you don’t want visible screw heads from the top, look into pocket screws.
In order to reduce/eliminate your boards cracking as you screw through them, it REALLY helps to dill a hole first. Pick your drill bit so that when you hold up your screw behind it, you cannot see the shaft, but only see the threads on either side of the drill bit. For an even better finish, after you drilled the hole, you should use a counter sink to create a “well” for the screw head to sit in (if you don’t want to buy a special bit to do this, you can take your phillips head bit, stick it in the hole (without a screw), squeeze the trigger and “swing” it around in a circle to artificially create a countersink. NOT as good as the special bit, but works in a pinch).
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Easy enough to “make” your own. When I get one that fails - either a cell or the case splits or something I take it apart and pull out the pack. They’re really just a set of individual sort of AA sized cells. You can search on ebay for replacements or one of the Chinese sites like Banggood, etc. Or do what I do - wait until I’ve got a couple that have failed. Usually it’s only one or two of the individual batteries that fail so I can steal replacements from the other defective one. A little (de)soldering work and I’ve got a refurbed one.
Google “rebuilding Ryobi li-ion battery pack” and you’ll find links to some videos and d-i-y postings on the detailed technique.
I almost always get another brand new set a couple of times a year (Christmas and Father’s Day) when HD holds their 2 for 1 sale 
The big multi-battery charger is a great add to the workshop too when you’ve got a half-dozen or more batteries to charge & maintain.
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Thanks for the feedback! Now that you say it, making a frame around the legs at the top and putting the top on top of that would have been the better way to go, but also would have used more wood and made the whole table that much heavier.
Any tips on having the angled cuts match up? Or is it just inevitable that sanding/filling will be required on the corners of a frame like this?
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There almost always is sanding/filling for mitered corners like this. At least in my experience there is when you are doing this on a piece that will be closely inspected.
Btw, with mitered corners there is another “joinery” technique you could use. Look up Splines. Essentially, you cut 2 or 3 “slots” in the outside edge of the corner with a circular saw or table saw. Then you create and put in a piece of wood that is JUST slightly thinner than the 1/8" slot coated with wood glue and then clamp it all down. Once dried, you cut off the extra bits that might be hanging out, sand it and you are good to go. VERY strong way to connect Mitered corners. (similar but more difficult are butterfly keys aka bow tie splines)
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Also, if you want solidity, use a piece of plywood vertically to connect at least two legs together. Your legs’ resistance to shear (essentially turning into sides of parallelogram instead of rectangle) is, to a first approximation, proportional to the vertical height of your bracing piece.
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As @julybighouse suggested the frame around the top, creates an “apron” and greatly enhances the structure, giving a bearing surface to fasten the legs to.
The lower shelf is also a great idea, making that cubic footage underneath much more useful - and more than doubling the lateral stability of the legs.
The pocket screw idea is good for a strong clean looking design. I might also consider levelers on the leg feet without casters. As mentioned, the pilot hole is a pro tip, and splitting is a concern when close to an end so a screw with a flat shoulder under the head won’t act as a wedge like a bugle head will. A screw like that, or even a lag bolt with a washer under it will give a very strong joint.
On the bench in my shop I put in a drawer with some glides where associated tools like squares, clamps etc. are kept handy.
Nice job! Wish I had room for a dedicated saw table, I have to hang the saw from the overhead joists for storage, which will be more of an issue once I need it for the materials to laser as opposed to the occasional use now.
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I have to take down a shelf to get this table to fit… but that isn’t too big of a deal. I looked for Levelers for the non-wheeled feet at Lowe’s and couldn’t find any that were suitable. The ones they had were small, for like an inside table or something.
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Yeah, I would want something more substantial too.
I used large bolts for mine, but I could weld the nuts on the square steel tube of the frame.
You could use “T” nuts, hammer them in and use pan head wood screws to each side to capture and retain the T nuts.
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Now that I think about it, I can use those metal plates that they have to screw in table legs… drill a hole into the leg for the bolt to be able to go into… maybe that would work.
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In terms of storage space under the table you might want to consider vertical slits, kind of like folks put into a cabinet to hold cutting boards and sheet pans or record collections. Since most of the material is flat, it starts to stack up quickly. I’ve been thinking about this option for my table.
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The trouble with vertical storage is that thin (1/4", 1/8", veneers, etc) wood materials (not so much acrylic) begins to warp/bow pretty quickly and then you’ll need to hold it down on the bed to cut/engrave. The flat storage drawers @karaelena is using are better suited. Same for storing papers.
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Good point. So far, so good with the ProofGrade plywood. The veneer I’m keeping flat on the pool table. The biggest issue I have dealt with in storage of wood is change in humidity from summer to winter.
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Old school but it is the “proper” way to screw things together(well, actually, drilling a shaft sized hole through your pieces, then a thread sized hole in your primary piece with a counter sink). Then applying the screw will result in the threads pulling the secondary piece tight to the first via the screw head.
Most people just ram the screws through and while it’ll hold, there is no compression other than the force you applied to begin with and you can still end up with gaps and looseness.
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I have the same ones! Can’t find them presently 
but they worked great at work for sharpening ceramic needle points. Whatcha using these for?
I plan to use them to sharpen my router bits. Just lay them flat on a non-slip mat and give them a few strokes.
For the record I haven’t tried this before, just going by recommendations.
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Careful clamp addiction is both real and more costly then heroin.
https://youtu.be/g0ikg9NdUvM check out around 1:15 onwards… You truly can never have enough clamps, nor enough of the one you need right now.
All the table tips in this thread are great and right on! My favorite countersink is the one which you can put a drill bit into. Amana is the brand I like.
Different sizes for different screws. Typically you want a #8 screw size with 1/8" drill bit. I’ve used a lot of other brands, but those are the best I’ve used. The rest tend to slip.
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less fatal but more likely to end in divorce than heroin
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I have a miter saw and a batter powered circular saw. If you are framing or doing quick projects then the circular saw is the only way to go. You will love it.
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