Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry)

#1

My friend, a flooring installer, gave me 5mm thick Jabota (Brazilian Cherry) and at a lost where to start working with it after figuring out the laser part

This is my first time working with unfinished wood and first non proofgrade hardwood. Once cut and hopefully not to have a yucky charred edge, I know I need to sand and finish it. What brand of electrical Sanders and finishing oils/stains you use?

I will probably make jewelry for before making something outside my comfort zone.

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#2

Well for small projects i use a Ryobi palm sander and as for the stains and oils, i take a scrape piece and try the ones i think will look good, Its all trial and error and personal preference.

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#3

Cut up a scrap piece into a 6” long piece. Mark off 1 inch squares and try assorted finishes. If you are using hardwood, try a stain or finish such as boiled linseed oil AFTER YOU LASER. Some finishes are not laser safe. Hardwoods generally look good with stains, waxed, and if you are comfortable, resin

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#4

So many finish options! I’ve had good luck with Watco danish oil. For a super smooth finish try wet sanding down to 600 grit and then finish with a paste wax. Here’s a quick summary that can lead down an huge rabbit hole of finishing techniques:

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#5

As to cutting, make a bunch of lines half inch apart, each a different color. Put a piece of wood in, import the lines, then try various powers/speeds / passes on each one to see what gives you the best cut.

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#6

Yes! I’m not a woodworker so finishing wood is new to me and I’m a but overwhelmed. I always thought I’d stay with prefinished wood from laser material suppliers but the I saw what other people were doing with beautiful raw wood

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#7

I guess that works on hardwoods as well? Except for Black Palm, there are not many palm tree species we use. :wink:

Also, I recently discovered that Jatoba may not be Brazilian cherry which is Jaboticaba but another completely different species called Jatoba with a pod-like fruit often called “Stinky toe” in the more normal locations at the ends of branches where Jaboticaba has its fruit in the trunk and large branches

Jaboticaba
|Family:|Myrtaceae|
|Genus:|Plinia|
|Species:|P. cauliflora|

Stinky toe
Legume
Species Hymenaea courbaril

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#8

power sanders can be overkill in many circumstances, especially if you are talking about jewelry-sized stuff. For a quick once-over on small edges, sanding sponges in a couple of different grits are really nice to have around (and a lot easier to control for small items).
That said, my Rigid random-orbit palm sander has worked hassle-free for years.

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#9

While I had originally purchased them for sharpening carving tools I have found that especially with the harder woods a final polish on flat surfaces with 1200 or 2000 mesh can make a huge difference, especially with the feel, and on the pendants I have been making, it has been as special on the back as the deep carve on the front that cannot be that much polished,

Where oiled surface is created I use Pledge Restoring oil that seems like a nice job

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#10

Black palm was such an inconsistent thing to cut, one of the trickiest to dial in settings that I’ve come across. When I read your zebrawood adventures I thought to myself “sounds about like stupid black palm”.

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#11

I will keep that in mind (a shame really):sob:

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#12

You may find this useful: https://www.wood-database.com/jatoba/

Also per https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_janka=2550.00%2C2750.00 it’s similar in hardness to Live Oak, Olive, and Rosewood - here’s a post on Rosewood (they were successful…eventually!): Advice for cutting through .44” rosewood with a GF Basic

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