Kirigami with Snapmarks

Several years ago I was hand-cutting and scoring Kirigami, taking hours of time. Now with Snapmarks, Kirigami doesn’t take magnifying glasses and knives and scoring tools … Oh My!

Here are two examples with patterns from; Cuckoo Clock and Grand Piano. The piano is shown without backing in views that are open and partly closed.
Yes, they do fold flat.
Snapmarks is a sure winner.


How do snapmarks come into play here? Curious how you’re using them to assist.

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Also that’s some of the best kirigami I’ve seen for sale. How much prep did you have to do on the PDFs? Were they close to ready?


I like that Grand Piano! :grinning:


Love this - I’m so impressed! Show us more :smiley:


I’d really like to know this, too.


On an 11 X 8.5 inch page, the Snapmarks are added to the PDF pattern, also making sure the mountain and valley colored lines are solid, not dotted. This is printed on 110lb card stock.
The 11 X 8.5 inch page pattern is copied and pasted onto the standard 20 X 12 inch page, which is uploaded to the Glowforge. Set the mountain/valley lines to score and the rest of the pattern to cut.
This literally saves hours relative to hand scoring and cutting


The valley/mountain colored lines should be solid. Upon uploading to the Glowforge, there was a warning about Clip Lines being converted to Paths. So even this went well.

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These are wonderful. I love paper … it is such a wonderful medium to work with.

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Well, I’m sold. These look amazing! I just bought the e-book; thanks for the link!

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Here are several more pictures. The pieces in the second and third photos mostly are found on the site for “Canon papercraft”. Here there are many nice patterns. Although the PDF’s go into Inkscape with nodes showing (bitmapping not required), nodes have to be joined for cuts and folds for scoring have to be edited in. It’s worth it …


Paper pop ups have been on my to do list, this has moved it up the list. Thank you for the link.

Ohmygosh, those paper animals, boats, and bulldozers are the bomb!

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For the white models, I guess I don’t know why you’d need to snapmark them, just cut the 8.5x11 out of 12x12 cardstock? (or scale the whole thing down to 90% and cut it out of 8.5x11 – Unless the scale is important?)

For pepakura totally, you can print and cut with snapmarks and that’s pretty sweet.

I made all my paper masks without snaps because I just cut the final shapes out of larger cardstock, it seems for kirigami you could do the same concept, yeah?

Ideally, mountain folds are scored on the front and valley folds are scored on the back. It is challenging to get the sub-mm alignment needed on the paper flip to make it worth doing. My experience with Snapmarks so far is that the alignment is not good enough for this. You are better off with one of the jigging techniques or, manually scoring the reverse. FWIW.


I agree for pepakura. If there’s any other artwork, besides folds, printed on the stock before cutting, the Snapmarks are a good solution.

For me, it’s not worth the trouble of scoring on both sides. I have been scoring both mountain and valley on one side, even when using hand scoring long ago. Paint spatulas of different widths make good folding guides to encourage folds scored on the wrong side.
If you only want printed artwork to align on two sides, there’a solution using Duplex printing. See “Aligning artwork on front-back sides for print and cut.”


not all of us are “permitted” to have snapmark capability. I have no idea why it is a “limited to some” feature.

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It’s still in Beta. An algorithm is choosing the machines they want to test based on machine metrics. :slightly_smiling_face:

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Just like it took over 3 years to get the machine I guess it’ll be another 3 for snapmarks.