Tell me about it. I travel almost weekly for my “real” job, have an “almost 8 year old,” am a landlord and serve on a University Advisory Board now. I was up until 2am this past weekend working on items that I technically sold 2 months ago but hadn’t been able to complete.
EDIT: And try to keep up with this forum as much as I can. @Jules posts alone require dedication to get through
I had tried on a knife with water and a paper towel and had one with a little etching and some with no marks at all. I used to etch on metal with a car battery charger and salt water . I would dip a q tip into salt water and clamp the negative end onto the metal and the positive end i would clamp to the qtip to where it was on the wet end and you wipe back and forth. You hear a little sizzling as you go but its a slow process. Works ok is you lay out a stencil and go at it. Anyways I had read on the forums that three coats was best. I dont remember the exact thread. I saw a video showing like 5 different products from moly lube to cermark and some other stuff with different variations of metals to variations of thickness of coats. Here is the link to that video hope you all enjoy.
Hope this helps some of you and in the mean time keep Forging!!
It’s a possible carcinogen apparently. It’s also an irritant (although in fairness if you stick a knife in your eye or lung, the irritation from the moly is the least of your problems). That’s from reading the literature, from a pubchem search. There isn’t actually much known about the toxicity. The oxides are quite toxic.
Definite chemical change happens when you hit it with all that heat/laser energy - else it would wipe off. So, not saying its’ certain to be safe, but if it’s not coming off in a dishwasher after a bunch of uses, it’s probably not coming off while slicing your steak.
Man, fantasitic job!! Have you tried bluing the blade and then etching it? Another idea might be using machinists blueing … not sure about them being food safe though, will have to look into that.