When I have played with PLA, I’ve successfully used hot water from one of those dispensers. Might work here. (I had some spiral-thread containers that were just a touch too tight, and running one side under 180F water and then working them a few times was perfect.)
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Never thought of that. I’ll have give it a try next time something is just a hair out of spec.
Thanks! 
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One of those kinds of dryers would probably work as well. 
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Didn’t think of that either - I don’t currently have one.
(Curly hair - air dries with a quick finger ruffling.)
Might need to finally invest in one. (What the heck - I never bought hairspray either, until I got a 3D printer.)
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Wait, what? I realize I could just google this, but for the sake of discussion, how does hairspray go with 3D printing?
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Adhesion of the first layer to the bed. That is the primary source of failure.
Hairspray applied to a bed, and then the bed heated to burn away all but the residue, results in a very nice tacky layer. Works better than gluesticks (about the same level of adhesion, but far less added and varied thickness)
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Yep! What Jacob said. It’s just the glue that holds the print down on the plate. 
As a glue stick guy I’ll have to try it.
I was a big fan of the hair spray method. But then I found these things: https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Rectangle/dp/B00MN5X084
They are absolutely magical. I’ve only had one print fail to stick, but that was my fault due to the plate not being properly leveled at one edge.
Now I have a bottle of Aquanet in my bathroom that’s never going to be used again.
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Spot on. I’ve been running them for a couple of years (doing eNable prosthethic hands). I went through the kapton tape, glue stick, hair spray (btw, get the unscented version if you use this method - works better than ones with an added scent) and finally the BuildTak.
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You can always use it to get rid of spiders (lots of back widows here)… 
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Jules, have you thought of, or had a chance to revisit this design now you’re a forger - 1/8" acrylic maybe ?
Could you do it in sections, like overlapping petals, to increase the overall size ?
Regards
John
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Not yet John, but it’s on the list for dispo soon.
(Been trying to get some final tutorials finished up - I’ll probably work on those this week, and finish up that knife block.)
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Custom Easter Baskets.
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Dang it! That was supposed to be a surprise! ROFL! 
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Since I mostly print on PETg on a borosilicate bed I use glue stick (otherwise it sticks so well it tears shards of glass off the bed) and for just PLA or Nylon 910 I use wolfbite on my E3D BigBox, and on my Taz6 which has a PEI bed I use gluestick for nGen since otherwise it sticks too well also.
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If you don’t want to mess with the gluestick a PEI sheet works really well for PETG. (No more cleaning off the boro.)
I have a stack of beds because I print so much that I will prep a batch of beds, and once the glue gets ratty (maybe 10-15 jobs) swap it out, wash and reprep and put a new one on. They eventually crack anyway from the repeated high heat/cool down cycles (when I use real high temp plastics like BluPrint they fail after about 10 jobs). I print a lot (multiple Kg a week) per printer for work.
I’ve thought about the aluminum PEI bed mod for my printer, but since I often swap between Nylon and PETg it easier to swap glass plates out
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I also have a rotating round robin of PETg and Nylons sitting in my PrintDry so I keep swapping to a super dry spool each job. Super awesome layer adhesion.
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Have any of you tried strong magnets? I have meant to try it, but haven’t. I saw this really awesome video (she has quite a few showing her whole laser process that those without laser experience might really enjoy watching) where she is using them when cutting leather! https://youtu.be/wQj29tEKjsM