Very nice work… I’ve been so looking forward to seeing some of the projects planned for the design store. I love seeing the designs in process as that’s half the fun in my opinion. Keep up the posts!
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Welcome @madebynick. These are very helpful and creative samples for inspiration and keeping the impatience hounds at bay. Loved the detail work displayed with the inlays. Thanks so much.
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Nice work. I especially like the broguing on the foreground wallet (I assume it’s a wallet?)
Cheers,
Andy
For a strong bond to a non porous surface, I would probably bet money that Barge will be one of your best solutions. There may be comparable brands, but there is a reason the shoe industry has been using it for years!
For porous to porous (and some non-porous surfaces, I’ve had great success with latex based contact adhesives. They get stronger over time, are water based, mostly natural, and don’t smell like solvents!
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Thanks Andy.
It was the beginnings of a simple wallet, yes. The 5/6oz leather is too thick for this purpose and given the central divider isn’t flexible, won’t stretch enough to allow you to fit more than one or two cards.
I think on the next iteration I’ll try a couple of layers of 3/4oz to create a double pocket. I may even create the leather component a little wider than the central divider so that it naturally form a pocket when stitched. I’ll let you know how the testing goes!
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Thanks Marion!
Thanks for all the info. I have never done any leather working. I want to make my own wallet when I get my unit. You say 5/6oz is too thick. What thickness would you recommend for a basic bi-fold wallet?
Hey Stumpy
It really depends on what you’re looking for and how many layers of leather you’re going to be using. I’d say that 3/4 is normally pretty good and will give you enough thickness that you can burnish an edge and stitch the material easily. If you’re concerned about bulk or wanting to line your work, then going down to 2/3 might work better for you. Finding leather that thin can be difficult however. You might need to source some calf or goat as the majority of tanneries won’t split cow to that thickness
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boah (german for wow? 
) - thank you for all your insights! I’d love to try to craft my own wallet too 
Like bohiwnmh
I’ve never done something like it. Do you think that is even doabel for some one who is unskilled with leather work? (actually as a trademan you should answer “no” 
)
So every bit of information is greatly aprichiated - what a great source of information this forum is - hard to belive!
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These are awesome! So inspiring. Great job.
Thanks so much @madebynick . I assumed there was no definite answer. I at least know where to start now. When you say “burnish an edge” you are talking about finishing the edge of the leather to make it look good right? Any tips you could give a complete novice on how to accomplish that?
I’ve been scheming to do some leatherwork with my Glowforge in the future, and I was wondering: What do you think about pre-perforating the stitching with the laser vs. sticking with something traditional like a sewing awl? Would it really save time and effort? Would it risk perforating too effectively and making the edge tear off or something? Looking forward to seeing more of your work, and of course to getting in on the laser fun myself!
I would love to see someone do a side by side strength test:
Awl vs. Cut holes
Same saddle stitch tear test.
I do wonder such things as well.
I do like to over think things I know nothing about… Helps me learn them better…
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You can use a burnisher, or any piece of wood that has a good rounded indention in it (make sure its smooth wood). It basically just smooths the edges of the leather. This is a burnisher:
But when ive found myself without one Ive always found something suitable around the house to get the same effect.
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It really depends on the use case of the leather as to whether its necessary to have round holes or not, but its also the same reason they dont use square windows in airliners.
edit: @annaclairerobinson I guess this answer was more for you than spike.
If you are going to have a lot of force pulling against the stitching, round holes are the way to go. An awl going through will give a bit more durability because it condenses the leather around the hole that is created instead of vaporizing it.
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The compression/vaporization answer makes a lot of sense, thanks! Sounds like laser-cut holes would be fine for more decorative, less functional stitching.
I’ve had my satchel, carried by a shoulder strap attached with laser-cut holes perpendicular to the strap, for more than a year. That thing’s taken a beating and the holes show zero wear.
Ditto my wallet and belt, which are 1.5y+ (but where the stitches are parallel to the primary forces).
I wouldn’t worry.
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Awesome. Ive never had any stitches I made rip either, even though the holes werent circular. Thats why Ive had no reason to move to that method of stitching. Are you glueing your leather together before stitching, and if so what adhesive are you using? I personally use barge cement and its incredibly strong
Hi Nick. Great work! How durable would you say that the infill paints you used are? How long could you expect them to last on an acrylic keychain fob?
Hey Tim!
I couldn’t say to be certain as the size of the fill, depth of engraving, and type of paint used would all have an effect. The laser does leave a good surface, ‘key’, for the paint to adhere too so I imagine they would last a long time. Of course, if there were large areas of paint fill and the fob was kept in a bag where keys, pens, change, etc, can rub against it, you would see greater levels of wear.
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