Leather Questions

It looks like it was dyed before cutting? Is this possible? I mean laser safe? I wasn’t sure and being cautious I was dying after cutting. I have some of the medium Proofgrade leather and liked it - i’ll have to try the thin. The only thing I didn’t like was that it seemed to be an awkward size. I know you can’t answer this but I have to ask. Will it be available in bed size pieces eventually?

2 Likes

And it comes with a pocket!!!

3 Likes

Went to Tandy for a preview. It took a LOT of self-control not to walk out with $5K in leather. There were some extremely soft options, too. Can’t wait for my Pro and a little bit of time.

5 Likes

I’m with you…can’t wait for some leather projects.
Just be sure to read through some of threads about the different types of leather that laser well. If it is not veg tanned, supposedly it doesn’t work that well and some types just kind of melt, rather than cut.

1 Like

Well, the big issues are certain tanning chemicals in non-veg-tanned can interact badly with lasers, but there is also one set that does char/burn more than cut/engrave.

Chrome tanned leathers tend to char.

2 Likes

I believe it also emits highly toxic chemicals that are not only bad for your laser, but for your lungs and the earth as well. I could be wrong on that one - still have not tried chrome tan BC of the early discouragement here. There has been a fair bit of discussion on the subject, but no conclusive answers that I’m aware of. Here are a couple of those threads:

Those comments were enough to give me pause. Though I do see laser cut garment leather out there, so I assume that it has to be possible. Not knowing what tannage they’ve used (chrome tan? oil tan?) I’m wary of experimenting, but would love a definitive answer on this one. Being able to use garment leather/soft leather would open up a LOT of possibilities.

If they don’t specify, it is most likely chrome tan as that is the cheapest to do. Veg or oil tanned will state. If in doubt, ask the seller.

Or do the burn or float test.

Chrome burns blue-green. Veg burns to a black/gray residue.

Stick a piece in boiling water - chrome will just float before going limp and veg will curl right up near instantly before limping out over time.

8 Likes

I’m moving this to Beyond the Manual, as the discussion has moved to evaluating safety of non-Proofgrade materials.

Sounds like you got a lot of good answers already. I’ll just reiterate that what you need is veg tan, and just a thinner version and/or from a different animal. I’m a huge fan of kangaroo leather for just about any use except tooling–it strong, doesn’t stretch out much, and is about as thin as heavy watercolor paper. Dan says it lasers like a dream.

Also, please don’t make any decisions about what leathers to laser based on what you see available as laser cut commercially. Some of those will actually be die-cut, and the rest may be cut under bad circumstances (source considers their laser and/or staff to be disposable).

5 Likes

Almost the entire stock at my local Tandy is chrome tanned.
They had one table of heavy thick veg-tanned, and then a few under the table options for thinner veg-tanned.
I put a bit in the laser before the current settings came out - crisped it up like crazy, and decided to wait a bit.
I should pull it out again; but I’m chicken of ruining such a pretty and expensive roll of hide.
I think there ought to be other sources beside Tandy for large sections; but I don’t know them.
A agree that I’d like proofgrade in larger pieces. I know leather isn’t like wood; bigger means more expensive in leather, whereas with wood you frequently get a per square foot similarity on the same kind of wood.

4 Likes

Take a look at both of these on Instagram:

Maverick Leather Company

Acadia Leather

I’ve ordered from Maverick Leather Co before and had a great experience. They sell a lot of leather and are great on the phone to chat and figure out exactly what you need. Plus, they run specials really often on their Instagram page.

6 Likes

‘Thinner’ can be so subjective, especially with something organic like leather. Modern suppliers correlate the traditional oz measurement to standardized dimensions. This might be a little easier to visualize, especially with calipers in hand.

7 Likes

Thanks for sharing that! :grinning:

1 Like

I got some Tandy leather for beanie patches recently and I believe it was same weight as yours. By the time I cleaned, oiled and pulled the patch over the edge of a table to work the oil in, it was feeling much thinner and no longer suitable for my patch, I had to go get a 9 oz knowing it will thin out.

Have you fully worked a test from start to end before determine it won’t work? If you are doubling up to only have nice sides out,. you can shave down on the suede side to thin at folds as well.

1 Like

Hello, this thread is 4 years old. I do not think the original poster will respond. His last post was over a year ago.

I have resorted to using 4/5 oz for other kinds of projects. Coaster, luggage tags, that kind of stuff. My process is the cut/engrave the uncoiled leather then dye/condition it with an all in one dye and wax. And thats it. It holds of remarkably well. For projects that I need more flexibility I use the glowforge proof grade leather. I’ve made a few wallets out of the thin size and it works really well.

1 Like

I’m still here… lurking

1 Like

Read your profile. In the late 80s, I was studying landscape architecture. Worked as a landscaper —I believe it was 16 years.

1 Like