Ok, this is the best SG applicator bottle I’ve ever used. The little squeeze grips are amazing. Highly recommend, I’m not buying anything else now. Much better precision and easier to control than a regular squeeze bottle.
Agreed. This is the only one I want. It even lasts a long time before getting clogged.
But not if you don’t use it for a whole year, as it turns out.
The stuff you get an Home Depot is overpriced and usually not all that “fresh”. CA degrades with time.
If you have a local hobby shop nearby, one that caters to model aircraft builders, they will likely have a much better selection of CA in varying formulations (thick to thin viscosity, and for different materials other than porous wood). There’s also a substance called “Kicker” that will accelerate the curing of the CA. Useful when you need to build up a fillet of glue. CA only cures instantly in the presence of moisture and when spread out in to a thin layer (or if you get UV curing CA, when exposed to UV light).
Of course, available on-line.
Thank you! This is news I can use.
'Twas an impulse buy a few weeks ago… GREAT applicator!
i have some mercury. the glue is great.
but that squeeze system on the loctite is still superior. at least to me.
I’ve tried a few of these “mechanical” dispensers and they’re great if you’re looking to squirt out a lot of glue. But for fine application, the mechanism multiplies force and makes it a bit harder to control, IMO. The tactile feedback you get from squeezing directly on the bottle works much better for me. But as with so many other things in life, YMMV.
I haven’t had that issue. I’ve been able to control tiny little dots.
That is very interesting! I have a uv flashlight that is pretty minimal compared to the sun or a tanning bed and of course no UV gets to the inside of the wood joint. Does the polymerization travel(inside the wood joint? Would the flashlight kick it off?
The founder is a friend of mine. There’s good reason it’s great.
The loctite bottle is a good idea but the cap is not airtight and gets gummed up quickly. It’s also ridiculously expensive if you use much of it.
If you’re using it regularly, teflon tips (that can be trimmed back) or disposable pipettes are the best way to dispense in tiny quantities:
Does the polymerization travel(inside the wood joint? Would the flashlight kick it off?
It depends on how tight the joint is and how bright the light is.
In one of my past lives, I worked for a company that made HDDs. We used UV Cure CAs in a lot of areas with very tight clearances, like bearing cartridges glued in to a surrounding bore. Where if we used normal CA, the glue would be spread thin and cured before we could push the cartridge halfway in to the bore. But with UV glue, we could coat the surface, insert the cartridge and then instantly cure it with a very bright UV light source. The light did indeed propagate through the “seam” to cure all the glue (a distance of about 1"). During development of the manufacturing process, we’d glue stuff together and then cut it apart to confirm we got good glue coverage and cure.
Besides UV cure CA, there are other adhesives like “Bondic” that UV cure. These others are more “resin” than glue. They’re basically the same stuff that runs through a SLA type 3D printer. Because they’re more viscous, they don’t soak in to a porous surface like wood, which can be beneficial in some circumstances. But because they’re more viscous they do a much better job of gluing things that need a little “fillet” build up around the glue joint. In fact, you can build up large structures by making multiple passes with the resin/UV light. The cured resins also tend to be quite a bit more resistant to stresses than CA joints. They have some “give” when cured, where CA is very brittle.
I have a couple of 1/2" diameter “UV” LED spotlight things I bought off a website in China. They’re supposed to be for black light mood lighting like under or behind a bar. But they’re 450nm which is right in the wavelength for UV cure adhesives and resins. I use them to tack parts together that come out of my Form2 3D printer.
I buy these in bulk on Amazon. The price goes down and since I don’t use enough to actually empty the bottle before it goes hard it ends up being the most economical solution for me.
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