Looking for corner solutions


#1

I’m working on a project where I want to connect multiple acrylic and draft board panels together, but I don’t want to use finger joints. I’m looking for something like these Modding Cubes from a US source, if possible. I’ll order from Parvum if necessary, but I was hoping to find something that might be a bit quicker to deliver. Does anyone have any ideas, sources, or alternative suggestions?

EDIT: I should add that the reason I’m looking at these is because I need threaded holes for all three axis to join the panels together.


#2

I have purchased some from eBay. The last ones i bought were from here…

http://dragonplate.com/ecart/product.asp?pID=6374&gclid=CjwKCAjwkrrbBRB9EiwAhlN8_NYHy8XySTVkU986dJoZrbe_1U-qFiMI0CoOrDmviG3MLKgiUTi3BhoCmqkQAvD_BwE


#3

Those look useful, but very expensive. It seems the cheaper nickel-plated brass options I can only find in Europe.

I found these mounting blocks that seem perfect, but they’re from Germany.


#4

These are all very cool. I didn’t know these were a thing.


#5

How about printing your own?


#6

Unfortunately, I’m having problems with one of my 3d printers and the other is in pieces at the moment. It may come down to seeing if I can fix one of them before I can receive a shipment from overseas.


#7

Googling about I found this thread:

And this:

In acrylic:

https://www.mountainmods.com/product_info.php?products_id=752&osCsid=1qg34e5ivld9tgs57ftrm3eth4

Out of stock:

These guys aren’t too bad, and look interesting (and also come in black):

I saw a case where a guy went with shapeways, which might be painful on cost:

https://bikerglen.com/blog/folding-the-six-panel-wall-into-a-cube/

Anyway, that’s a good thing to know about.


#8

http://www.newark.com/ettinger/05-60-533/cube-standoff-threaded-m3-10ni/dp/59M4074

https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Screws/Fasteners/Cube-Standoff-Threaded-3xM3-12x12-mm::4467.html?language=en


#9

A search for “knockdown connector corner” did nicely for me for a few more alternatives.


#10

Do they need to be threaded? Could the use self-cut screws? You could cut cubes this size on the GF - complete with a pilot hole if you wanted?

Alternatively, could they be glued instead?

Might not fit for your application I know.


#11


#12

Thanks. I had thought through some of those options. Something like #1 or #2 might work.


#13

I had seen a few options that allow for joining of two panels, but I’m having trouble finding options that allow for joining of three panels.


#14

I was looking for threaded options, because I was considering having the mount (whatever it ends up being) on the inside corners, with screws entering from outside the panel. I want the ability to remove screws repeatedly in the future, so a threaded option seemed better for longevity.


#15

Thanks. I was using every google trick I could think of to search, and you found a couple of options I didn’t.

The TOMA option was exactly what I was looking for originally.

I actually ordered a set of the Makerbeam cubes, and should have them tomorrow. I’ll see how well they thread.


#16

I have not done this as yet but it is on the list when the need arises. If each finger is exactly the width of the wood you can cut a number of pieces to fit perpendicular to the surface and a hole cut on each piece to line up with each other. Then you can have a pin through all the holes that can be removed at will. Originally I was thinking of using bamboo skewers but aluminum or steel knitting needles would work as well.


#17

For anyone interested in updates on this, I ordered the assembly blocks from TOMA today.

I also received the Makerbeam Corner Blocks that I ordered over the weekend. The small holes on three sides are sized for 3mm screws, but not threaded. It is possible to thread them for M4 or larger screws, but the walls are so thin that you only get something like a thread and a half, maybe two. These will work in a pinch, but I’m not sure how well they will hold up. When tapping the thread, it has to be perfectly vertical or the hole will be extremely oversized.

I also managed to get one of my 3D printers working again, and printed off a bunch of corners that I can use, but when I get the TOMA blocks, I will probably prefer them for long-term use. I’ll update when I receive them.


#18

My own route would be to create one set of corners using the forge, and laminating acrylic, then using silicone moulding rubber and casting rigid PU resin.
I used this approach when creating about 120 joints for a geodesic bird feeder. Then, I used a cnc to create the joints, admittedly flatter then you would need for the job in hand, but now, planning to revisit the design with Glowfinger, that’s the way I’ll go.

John :upside_down_face: