My masking tape is falling right off the wood catching on fire and flying through the machine!!! Where can I get good masking tape and what is it called?
Is this off of the proofgrade or a other?
You can try running a flat edge(like a gift card or the like) all across the masking and see if that’ll help it re-adhere. A number of the wide maskings like this have a pressure sensitive glue that needs to be activated in this manner.
GreenStar Application Transfer… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C131Y04?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I have gotten. It’s fairly low tac so needs to be “rubbed” on or it will come loose. I’ve only used it once and seemed useful enough(most of what I’ve done for someone uses sealed wood so it wipes off with alcohol really easily).
Just beware the transfer tape moniker as it is also used for pvc transfer and is often made of a pvc material itself which has the dreaded Chloride in it. Laser vaporizes it into chlorine. It combines with water to make acid. Your machine dissolves over days or months and ends up dead. It doesn’t take much. You can do a search for units damaged this way here on the forums.
Bad masking is a common, avoidable source of fire. Please see item #2 on this list and use the search function for “masking” Common problems/questions
I don’t usually mask wood, but I’ve had good results from this transfer tape and roller with acrylic.
That is the paper that I bought from Amazon but it does not stick to the wood and then it flies all over the machine on fire while it’s burning and even caught the thing that holds the laser bar, the thing that moves up and down and moved the wood during the printing or cutting so it was a disaster! do you think I just got an old batch of tape or what? but the tape would not even after burnishing it down to the wood, it would not stay stuck to the wood !
We got you covered.
Check this out:
You must insure that your masking is securely adhered. Many use a tool (think squeegee) to place the masking. Also, the wood you are masking may have a finish that makes masking a challenge. What wood are you using?
This is the tool I use to apply masking. Hand pressure alone is not enough for the masking to stick well to unfinished wood.
I use a plastic putty knife with felt glued on the edge.
I have found that a light sanding of the material to be lasered causes the masking to adhere better.
The paper I use is called VinylEase-Paper Transfer Paper. I have tried the other suggested transfer papers but VinylEase is my go to. It may be a little more $ but is worth the price and is often on sale. The Amazon Seller will tell you its not for laser cutters but that is their lawyers talking. The Seller’s concern is that paper may catch on fire using it with a laser cutter. (well, yes a risk with all transfer paper products.) I’ve used this paper for several months and I won’t buy anything else.
Just using your hands to apply the paper works very well. I like Icronkite’s suggestion of a light sanding. That makes perfect sense.
This is my experience - regular wood, plywood, or veneer has to be sanded then cleaned before applying masking.
I’ve used compressed air or alcohol-soaked lint-free wipes after sanding.
The only exception - again, from my experience - has been the Purebond branded plywood from THD. It appears to be already sanded.
Here is what I get for that material in the Amazon description:
- NOT FOR USE WITH HEAT TRANSFER VINYL OR ANY LASER CUTTERS, ENGRAVERS or LASER DEVICES
They’re covering themselves against lawsuits, as they are a vinyl supply business, not a laser supply business. Vinyl cutters won’t set masking tape on fire and burn down a machine or a house. It’s just paper masking tape. Probably the most recommended one on the forums and on social media.
Thanks for the informed response. It says paper tape all over the descriptions. But that line sticks out.
Flapping masking is asking for a fire for sure, so testing for adhesion is key.
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