Is this new? On mine I get the gray no-go zone on the left as well as the right.
Honestly, I don’t know. Edited my response above to indicate that this is the behavior I’ve come to know and love, as opposed to the “correct” behavior. 
Actually I would call it a flaw. I have been trying to get a response on the problem. I sent photos today of the great accuracy my GF has sometimes .
I’m having the same issue, camera seems off about 1/16th of an inch. for something that is supposed to be accurate to a kerf of 1/64 (my understanding) this is a big huge issue.
Except, they told you when you accepted delivery that currently (not to be confused with “forever”) there may be as much as 1/4" difference between the camera image and the placement of the cut.
They have been tightening it up and it is considerably less on many machines.
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The camera actually does see the full tray, but the software has to first de-warp the image (fisheye correction) and adjust for the height of the material. You can see an example of the raw camera image at this post:
They GFUI software crops the image so that the top-left of the displayed image is as far left and up as you can cut. It doesn’t show the top-left of the bed even though the camera can see that.
If you add an engrave operation, especially at 1000 speed, and select that operation to move it around, you will see the left-side gray bars move in.
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To get better optical alignment on a piece like that, place the piece right under the camera. The alignment inaccuracies get worse the closer to the bed edges you get.
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Trying to understand the OP situation since it isn’t standard. The first picture looks like green masking tape over the honeycomb. What thickness of material did you enter when you did the first image of the bed without material? Perhaps that is the source of the anomaly of the design not in sync with the bed image.
Placing Proofgrade over tape on the honeycomb adds a non-negligible height difference to the material. Wondering if that is some of the issue in subsequent prints.
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(Note post deleted because I realized I didn’t directly Reply to this post)
I put my material as one of the PG veneers, as I figured that would be about the closest/easiest PG material to get the camera to come online.
Best would be to use calipers to measure your tape and enter that height in the dialog you get by selecting “Use Uncertified Material”.
However, that will only affect the accuracy of where the image is placed on your screen. The point where the edge of your object goes past where it will allow the cut, score, or engrave to occur is where the object will turn gray.
This is why I suggest using some small squares or L shapes for each corner. You can nudge them until they just trigger the out-of-bounds to occur. The top and left, (0, 0) position will always be the top left of the cropped view in your display, but it may not accurately represent where those corners will be cut–depending both on the accuracy of your height measurement and the variability they still have for camera alignment.
Imagine that the edge of the bed is at the spot marked “Edge”. If you have a thick piece of material, the blue line shows the angle it appears at to the camera. A thin material will be at the red line, and zero height is at the green line.
If you have something really thin, but tell the UI that it’s thick, you will “see” further to the side–but you will also have that much more error in placement. This is a parallax effect and why having the accurate thickness is so important.
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Thanks. I understand what you’re saying, and understand that is a way to accomplish what I was trying to achieve in regards to delineating the live area of the honeycomb,
However I don’t understand why that would impact the Glowforge showing that the live area falls outside of the honeycomb and onto the plastic part of the tray on the bottom and right side. There can’t be enough difference in height between the tape and the imaginary PG veneer to throw the camera off that much.
Try putting in material height of 0” and 0.5” and see the difference for yourself. Also remember that the visual alignment can be in error by up to 0.25” at this point.
Thanks, not trying to be a jerk here, but I realize there will be a difference when there’s a half-inch height variance. I’m talking about the difference between the depth of the painters tape, and that of PG veneer. It has to be less than a millimetre.
Also, I wasn’t talking about the camera visual alignment. I posted a picture of a cut that extended off my board (placed to the bottom of the honeycomb) that continued onto the front handle of the tray. (last image, bottom left).
Well that’s were I started and it was off. So I moved it about 4 times. The images are just off the left side . I got tired of moving it trying to get it to start in the center.
Are the feet of the tray in the divots? Your tray is sitting much farther back in the machine than mine does. The handle of the tray on mine is pressed up tightly against the front door, and the lip actually goes underneath the shield.
Try removing the Passthrough shields, lowering the door and pulling the tray forward some. You might have gotten a passthrough shield that extends down a little too low in front, which would keep the tray from sitting forward as far as it’s supposed to. Those can be changed out, or you can just leave them off to run a couple of tests.
Pictures:
If the tray isn’t seated in the divots, there are probably going to be some serious placement problems. (Just something else to check.)
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Winner winner chicken dinner! I think this is it. I took the Passthrough shield off and was able to move the tray much closer forward to the front, and it appears to sit in the divots much better.
So with that in mind, I put the shield back in, and if I was able to lift the back of the tray up a bit to tilt the tray handle down just enough that I was then able to push (it’s a tight fit) the tray all the way forward again underneath the shield.
Also, I had no idea the whole front of the Forge came off/flipped forward like you’ve shown in your pictures. Wild.
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Fantastic! 
Yeah, the important bit for placement is to make sure the tray feet are all the way down in those divots, as long as those are seated, everything is aligned correctly.
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The picture you showed of the round piece with the offcenter engraving appeared to be on the left side of the bed. You can expect the worst optical alignment over there.
You will get the best alignment directly beneath the camera that is in the middle of the lid.
If the alignment is off even more there, then you should post an example of that in your own post in #problems-and-support showing that.
I did . I started at the center and moved to the left and result are the same.
Yes I had the pass thru shield problem when I got mine.the door would not close with the tray in .I removed the pass thru and everything seems to be right now except for off and on alignment issues
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