Mothers day gift that is going viral at work or, How I got hooked on engraving

[jacobturner]

So the frame and image are all just one piece of wood, right?

Pretty damn nifty that I even have to ask that no matter which answer I get.

[markevans36301]

I’ve done some that way but no, these have the frame in a contrasting wood. Cherry or walnut for the frame, maple for the photo.

The whole thing is a 1/2 inch thick as there is a 1/8 layer for the frame, a 1/8 for the photo its self, and then two pieces creating a T-slot mount. I save a lot of wood by having the mount as just strips across the top and then repeated across the bottom. I have two sets of files for this part as they are different for portrait or landscape.

[Tom_A]

This… is… awesome.

@markevans36301

then two pieces creating a T-slot mount. I save a lot of wood by having the mount as just strips across the top and then repeated across the bottom. I have two sets of files for this part as they are different for portrait or landscape.

Any chance you want to show a shot of that and/or share the files?

Thanks!

[Derren]

Can you give more details regarding the process? That is, what program did you use? Were you using default GF settings for picture engraving, if there currently are any? One piece of wood or was the frame a standard picture frame that you inserted the engraved piece into? Everyone is welcome to chime in. Thanks in advance…

[dan]

For my photo print I made it greyscale, boosted contrast, sharpened, and then used the Proofgrade default to engrave it. I did this in Photoshop but any photo editing program would work.

[Jules]

@takitus has a tutorial on prepping a photo for engraving in the Raster Programs Matrix. (There’s a couple for Photoshop, one for GIMP and one for Paintshop.)

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[markevans36301]

I’ll tell you what has worked for me, your milage may vary.

• Start with a good photo, preferably outside but definitely well lit.
• Run it through a photo editing program to optimize it. I’ve mostly used Photoshop express but if I was trying to get an iffy file to work I’d go into something more advanced. For me, that would be GIMP.
• Normally don’t dither, more pixels are usually better with the way things are with the GFUI.
• There is no need to reduce a color shot to B&W for the GFUI sake but it may well help you identify a problem.
• Print a small version on a scrap before committing to an 8x10
• I know this goes against gospel but I am getting best results with the mask off and medium engrave setting.

[markevans36301]

Believe it or not I’ve been so excited about the fronts that I have forgotten to photo the backs! I will do that when I’ve done the next one.
As to sharing the file, I’m not sure I want yours to look exactly like mine so why don’t I just show you how it is done?
Well poo! I just went to my models and they are messed up with components missing.

Okay, here are the components and you’ll have to imagine until I get a photo. The keyhole goes to the outside with the large slot under. This way everything sits on two screws quite nicely.

[nunzioc]

@dan

For my photo print I made it greyscale, boosted contrast, sharpened, and then used the Proofgrade default to engrave it. I did this in Photoshop but any photo editing program would work.

@markevans36301

Start with a good photo, preferably outside but definitely well lit.
Run it through a photo editing program to optimize it. I’ve mostly used Photoshop express but if I was trying to get an iffy file to work I’d go into something more advanced. For me, that would be GIMP.
Normally don’t dither, more pixels are usually better with the way things are with the GFUI.
There is no need to reduce a color shot to B&W for the GFUI sake but it may well help you identify a problem.
Print a small version on a scrap before committing to an 8x10
I know this goes against gospel but I am getting best results with the mask off and medium engrave setting.

@Jules

@takitus has a tutorial on prepping a photo for engraving in the Raster Programs Matrix. (There’s a couple for Photoshop, one for GIMP and one for Paintshop.)

@takitus

Thank you all so much for your info / help on this…engraving photos is one of the biggest reasons I wanted to buy a GF…

Btw, as a teaser, and as a thank you, and not to derail, sorry, but I hope to post a metal engraving project & the how to in a couple of days…mwa ha ha ha ha…I’m calling dibs on that!

And @dan: Oooh, the thoughts about where it could go, if you could develop a printing head, that maybe uses some special ink…I’ll explain it all when I post the project.

[Xabbess]

I’ve been following this thread with interest. I am confused about something…if I download an already BW photo into the GUI, it shows like a negative. Obviously, there’s something I’m missing here.

?

[markevans36301]

That is just how the GFUI acts, it will print right when you push the button.

[markevans36301]

@nunzioc

Btw, as a teaser, and as a thank you, and not to derail, sorry, but I hope to post a metal engraving project & the how to in a couple of days…mwa ha ha ha ha…I’m calling dibs on that!

Now that I’m started down this dark path I’m really looking forward to seeing that. I want to get good on several materials so I can offer different looks and options.

[nunzioc]

You’re gonna love it!!

[Xabbess]

Thank you so much. I was sort of wondering if that might be the case, but didn’t want to waste material to find out I was wrong.

[nunzioc]

Oh, and I forgot to mention: I’ve found that some pics printed better just as they were, with no manipulation, while some printed better when converted to dithering. I have not yet tried Dan’s advice, but will soon!

@dan

For my photo print I made it greyscale, boosted contrast, sharpened, and then used the Proofgrade default to engrave it. I did this in Photoshop but any photo editing program would work.

[PlGHEADED]

What materials would require the negative to be printed? I imagine granite(black) would as well as any anodized metals. Have any samples of these been posted? Do some woods work better for images/photos than others? I’d imagine darker woods and “grainier” woods would be less desirable.

[jamesdhatch]

@PlGHEADED

What materials would require the negative to be printed?

Acrylic plaques/signs sometimes work better with a negative (not just mirrored) version of the original. Ditto some darker woods like walnut and as you said granite, etc.

[markevans36301]

The rule of thumb for submitting a negative would be anything that lightens with laser exposure.

The best woods are, yes, light colors. I use maple exclusively for the photo.

[dan]

@Xabbess

.if I download an already BW photo into the GUI, it shows like a negative. Obviously, there’s something I’m missing here.

Please bug that! That’s exactly the sort of feedback that’s helpful for us to hear.

We’ve seen it so many times we don’t even notice, but you’re right.

[Xabbess]

OK. Got it.