Neat idea! I noticed these tables are 35 3/8" long and the GF specs say it’s 38" long…
I’m wondering if the overhang will be any sort of issue. I realize it isn’t much ( < 3" ) but I figured I’d bring it up…
Had you considered this?
Thanks!
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The feet are not right on the edge of the Glowforge dimensions. The feet are about 6" in from the side of the case, and roughly 4.75" from the back edge of the case.
So basically…
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Ahh great point! lol and thanks for the visual, that really helps!! Lol
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How thick are the tops for these tables? I like this allot, however I want my table even shorter given the height of the GF with the filter. Thanks!
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The top of my table is nearly 2" tall. Total overkill. However, I was using IKEA parts, so it is what it is.
Feel free to build whatever you like. I used IKEA parts to make things cheap and easy.
Hi Jason -
I am curious why you didn’t go with the original idea in the Ikea Flat File Hack article that you linked? I am considering building something very similar to that, so I figured I would check with you to see if you found some potential issue going that route.
Thanks
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@mhumphrey, sorry for the delay in responding.
I thought the concept for that table was perfect.
I chose a different design for 2 reasons:
- I wanted it to have wheels because I purchased the Pro and might want to use the pass through. Also, I might have to move it for other reasons.
Note: this could have been solved by simply adding another layer as the bottom and attaching wheels to that layer. - I just had the feeling that Jonathan Fong’s design wouldn’t be stable enough to support the weight of the Glowforge. His design has an entire set of legs for each level. That’s a lot of potential for misalignment (even if everything stays attached properly) and complete failure (if something isn’t attached right and the table is loaded akwardly). My table design uses 3 tables for the materials, but there are only 2 full sets of legs.
Now that I have my Glowforge, I have only 1 complaint regarding my table design. I wish the table were slightly wider so I could fit 3x full size sheets of Proofgrade plywood or acrylic side by side. In its current form, I can fit 2x full sheets side by side plus a set of hardwoods, which is smaller.
Lastly, I did make a small change recently. I added Velcro to the front of each “shelf” so I can laser small signs that say what goes where and put them in the right place. When I move things around, all I have to do is move the labels.
In short, I love my Glowforge table and am super happy I went with this option any other option I’ve seen. That comes with 1 exception. @PrintToLaser uses a sliding drawer system that is truly impressive. If I purchased the basic and had a work table like his, I would copy him in a heart beat. He posted a video of it somewhere here on the forum, but I’m not sure where.
Hope that answers your question.
Jason
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Yes it did, and thank you.
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I just finished making my Glowforge table. It is basically Jonathan Fong’s design with a few changes, including casters instead of feet. His post didn’t provide many details, so I’ve taken pictures every step of the way and plan to post complete instructions, including what glue to use (clear epoxy), the need to rough up surfaces to get a good glue bond, full parts list, dimensions, etc.
I am not concerned about strength and alignment of legs. Each shelf is rated for 110 lbs. The heaviest shelf will be the top one — the Glowforge + air filter weigh 80 lbs, and the weight will be well-distributed across the surface. Each set of legs are rated for 1100 lbs and a set of the casters I used are rated for 700 lbs. The weakest link is the glue, which is why it is important to get that right.
None of us want to take chances with our Glowforges. As long as you take care in your construction, this design is solid.
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Oh, please do post this. I am about to build that table, and you may save me a ton of headaches.
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If you have not yet built a table using Jonathan Fong’s design, may I make a suggestion?
The Linnmon table tops are a great choice, inexpensive and rigid. But I wonder if glue would keep the Capita legs in place if the table gets a hard bump. Further, it doesn’t appear that they leave enough space to stack Proofgrade material on the shelf, because the mounting plate means the leg will be in from the edge of the shelves. If there is at least 36" from left to right between the legs, then 3 stacks of 12" x 20" material will fit: 12 + 12 + 12. I don’t have Capita legs to check the exact measurement of the mounting plate, but it looks like it would be hard to get >36" space.
An alternative construction method is to use threaded rod. There’s a popular stereo equipment rack built this way - the Flexi. See Easy Flexy Rack for an example. 1/2" rod is likely sufficient. When deciding how far from the edge to drill the holes, make sure to account for the diameter of the washers used, to get at least 36" of side-to-side space for material. Blind holes (i.e., not all the way through) can be drilled 3/4" deep in the bottom of the Linnmon that is used for the top most shelf, and it can just be set on the top of the rods. Or epoxy nuts into the holes for greater strength.
If the bare threaded rod isn’t an appealing look, cut PVC pipe big enough to fit over it as a sleeve. There are instructions on the web for removing the printing, or painting the pipe.
Another leg option is to use PVC pipe, or metal conduit or tubing. 1" outside diameter (OD) is probably the biggest you could use while maintaining the distance between legs at >36". Get coarse thread screws that are at least 1" longer than the diameter of the legs and the distance they will be from the end of the shelf (e.g., for a 1" OD leg placed 1" in from the end of the shelf, the screw should be a minimum of 3" long). Position the shelf at the right height on the leg and drive the screws in from the end of the shelf, through the leg.
If you need more details, ask away!
I had planned to build a Flexi-style table, but decided I wanted covered storage, so will be using IKEA kitchen base cabinets with doors.
I really appreciate you taking the time to post this. I have already built my table, though. Like you, I was uncomfortable with the glue. I made some brackets out of quarter inch clear acrylic:
The brackets work well, and I think look nice. Unfortunately, the Capita legs are the weak link in this design. They are fine to support the weight of the GF, but if you try and lift up on any shelf except the bottom one, they will separate like this:
The threaded rod is a good idea, and one I will give serious consideration if I ever rebuild the table. BTW, here is a pic of how the table turned out (pic is pre-reinforcement of top shelf - see below)
I collaborated with another user here, who provided many good suggestions for the design. He is planning on posting a full write-up on this, so I’ll save the details for that. But I do want to say, if you use the alternate top shelf that @chris1 suggested, you should seriously consider reinforcing it, as it is a very thin layer of wood over a very sparse frame. I built a supplementary frame to reinforce it - pic below.
EDIT: Attached zip file has the Illustrator source, PDF, and SVG for the brackets and the drill template, as well as an image scan of the metal bracket that’s on the top of the Ikea Capita legs.
Ikea Brackets.zip (4.0 MB)
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Nice job! That looks great.
For anyone else following along, would you mind measuring the distance between the front legs? Wondering how close it is to 36". I can see from the last picture that it might be possible to install them a little bit closer to the ends. Thanks.
The bracket edge is very close to the edge - about 1/8" IIRC, but I will check when I get home. I also have a template that I made to help me drill the hole consistently. I am happy to share the design for that if people would find it useful.
Sorry for the slow response.
With my brackets installed, from the inside edge of the bracket to the inside edge of the other bracket is about 33 1/2 inches. Without my brackets, measuring from the inside edge of the base of the Capita leg to the other is 34 1/4 inches. The distance between the longitudinal axis of the legs is 36 inches, The upper edge of the bracket is 1/8” from the edge of the shelf.
Looking at the base of the leg, it may appear that the legs can be positioned closer to the shelf edge, but this is not the case; it is the upper bracket that is the limiting factor.
Thanks for checking that. It’s helpful to confirm that Capita legs can’t be installed on the Linnmon top with more than 36" of space side to side. That means anyone wanting to store three (3) stacks of Proofgrade material side by side should use a different leg assembly, such as the threaded rod mentioned above.
Sharp looking table though!
that is really freaking nice!! i’d buy one from you.
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Thanks for sharing the files! What was the specific reason for using a different top table, just more space? I’m about to order my parts, but don’t think I can fit anything larger than 24" wide due to some strange specific logistics in my basement/workshop…
Yes, more space.