Need Dremel accessory recommendation

The thickness of this material is .18 The GF did not cut through. I have used various Dremel cutting wheels but none of them could give me a precise cut.

What Dremel accessory would you recommend?

Is there another tool or way you would recommend to have a precise cut?


1 Like

Sometimes I feel like I need a mini-sawzall. Do they make something like that?

Maybe something like these?

2 Likes

I use these for a variety of “cuts” on many different materials – on wood they “gum up” a bit (requires a steady hand). I’m thinking you’ll use these from the backside to cut free what the Forge couldn’t…

4 Likes

I sand the back until it falls through. Here’s a video I made of this if it helps.

10 Likes

To me this looks like it may b solvable with more experimentation. Maybe 2 passes is the trick for this material.

They do make a mini router attachment for a Dremel … but any kind of hand tool is going to be hard to make super clean cuts with. I would only consider that when I was 100% convinced the laser was a dead end.

3 Likes

Not sure, but from the picture it looks like a glue pocket or void. I’m not sure a second pass would work on a void. I usually use a utility knife or exacto to punch those out, but I think the sander is a good idea…I’m just took lazy to go to the garage for something small like this.

1 Like

I also use a thin blade; if I can’t just cut it free then I score the uncut side as deeply as I can manage and then punch the piece out (gambling that my scoring was good enough to avoid excessive tearout).

2 Likes
3 Likes

That really looks like a material issue. What is it you are cutting?

A mechanical tool like a dremel is not going to give a clean, uniform cut for the kind of work I believe you are doing.

Edited to add - I have all kinds of wheels for a dremel, including those posted above, and many more besides. I have wafer-thin steel saw blades. I would never attempt to correct that with any of them. It’s just not the right tool for the job. Figuring out the material issue is.

2 Likes

image

6 Likes

I think it is a mistake to look to power tools. If your cut is straight I would look to this…

For places with a curve I use a jeweler’s saw with what is considered a heavy blade in that industry you will want a deep back like a German Adjustable Jeweler’s 6" Saw Frame - RioGrande with one of the larger #3 blade(?) I used to use 8/0 blades but they will break if you look at them funny.

Or in some circumstances this saw is one (similar) I use a lot.

If you are cutting 2x4s not the best but for what we do the blades fit or near fit the kerf and you have extreme control and it is not really slower than power saws.

5 Likes

None, you want to use a sharpe wood chisel or knife

3 Likes

@bill.m.davis

Instantly after I read your post I remembered I do have a miniature saw blade it goes with my ZO-91 Ultrasonic cutter.


@CapnMike This was the very first Dremel accessory I used. It was too big for the area.

@wenning08 This is the best tip I have ever seen. So I dedicate this song to you.

@martin.anderson Great idea!!

@ekla I own this accessory and I have never used yet.

@eflyguy I was doing a prototype for the eBay store. This is the underlayment from Home Depot. This product also has a piece of rope going through it.

@Aloha I did not use my hand but I did take the material and slam it against the table.

@rbtdanforth very smart idea.

Thank you to each and everyone of you.

@CMadok I should have just called your emergency Glowforge line.

5 Likes

Don’t know if it’s the same but lauan underlayment is possibly the worst material I ever used on the GF. It was cheap as dirt for a reason. It’s built to provide a cheap level surface for tile and such.

I burned thru one 8x4 sheet I picked up and cut up, but never again.

3 Likes

This topic was automatically closed 32 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.