One thing I never did is focus on the bands. Always on the material. I told GF that the crumb tray has a slight movement. I noticed when I cleaned last, I pushed in the back of the dimples. I noticed that when I open the front door I could push it back just a hair again.
They knew this, it’s part of the design. It’s not a big deal for almost any other kind of process.
Cut yourself some boots, you’ll be happy you did.
I downloaded the boots will cut them after I get some orders done. If it has been the thickness of my board this whole time. Why couldn’t GF tell me that? I feel like I had them scratching their heads. I have been going mad over this.
You are either moving something (material, art, tray) or your GF head is losing its position (lost stepper motor steps, head collision, loose belts, re-homing for any reason).
If you follow that process strictly the alignment literally can’t be wrong if your art is aligned properly. if you follow it to the letter and it’s still off, it’s time to get serious about possible mechanical issues.
If I were in your shoes, I would make a test design and try it out a bunch to ensure that the machine is working properly. There’s no reason to cut/engrave an entire watch job just to test this stuff out. It’ll be faster and cost less materials if you just make a series of experimental “targets” and use that as a testing design.
When you say don’t move the art. Once I have it download in GF I don’t. but every order is different. I use a template. I always download a template every time also before placing the designs.
In the past few days, once I cut a jig, it is good until the next day or when I turn the machine off. That when it seems to go weird. My GF is still under warranty also. If this helps!!
it is not trivial to put the boots in place. but once you do that crumb tray stays PUT!
There’s your issue.
You’ll have to recut the jig every time* you upload new art.
* not really but explaining how to setup the jig/art and/or use precision placement to avoid that is hard to write out.
I hope I don’t, I have it marked where the jig lines up on the honeycomb. It is also secured down. I write the coordinates down.
This is imprecise. Learn about double jigs and corner jigging and you can get dead on repeatability and consistency that you cant get just with marks on the comb.
You’re not saving any time/money at all if you misalign even one job in 20. Doublejigging will never let you down.
Thank you I will. I am going to see if I can find some info on those.
@jbmanning5 has done a lot of repeatable jigs:
Some discussion here:
The basic idea is that you cut a jig to be used inside another jig. A nice rectangular reusable jig with cutouts for your bands. Then when you want to use it, you cut a jig to slot the rectangular jig into. Everything else proceeds ad normal more or less.
I use corner jigging instead of cutting the whole thing out, you only need to lock it in the correct spot, and it saves a lot of time and materials to just cut the corners out of cardboard and slot the jig into place.
Writing all this out with pictures is really inadequate; doing a full write up with pictures and whatnot would be really good but also take forever. Sorry, no time to get to that.
On my machine it doesn’t take much force to snug the tray into place. But I’m sure there are manufacturing tolerances that can lead to varied experiences. A little sanding could make things easier while still keeping a snug fit, or you could tweak the design…
my difficulty was getting my fingers in there to get them in place.
Ah, I just took the tray out!
I had them move a little bit
Sounds like you maybe need to try this brand new Glowforge feature.
What are your settings for the card board? If you don’t mind…oops! Just kept reading and found them. Thanks