I realize painting proofgrade wood is a little beside the point… but I’m going for a paint “dipped” effect with some earrings, and still want the finish of proofgrade. I’ve tried sanding the dipped portion first, but it wasn’t good enough to prevent peeling. I have searched the forum, but didn’t quite find an answer. Any advice?
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The sanding is always best, but I’ve gotten a really neat effect by mixing some paint or PearlEx powder into white glue.
(just don’t drop the powder)
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You need to apply a clear coat after painting and sanding. Bare wood is probably going to work better than pre-finished Proofgrade. Sand, paint, repeat a few times, then sand again, apply clear coat, sand, repeat. It takes several layers to get a durable, smooth finish.
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Thank you! I hadn’t heard of PearlEx, but that looks intriguing. No guarantees I won’t drop the powder.
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Thanks for your response. I think you’re right about bare wood. The clear coat I used before was minwax polycrilic, which did not agree with my paint, so maybe I need to try a different top coat or paint. I tested some on baltic birch, but I didn’t like the light color of the wood, which is why I was trying to use proofgrade, but I’m guessing I can stain wood before cutting and then sand/paint/topcoat.
Jules has a good approach–when I want to paint acrylic paint onto a finished surface, I combine glue with the paint. I have heard that soap also works (decreases the surface tension of the paint so it doesn’t bead up) but I don’t think it would stick as well as paint/glue mixture.
Great, thanks for the feedback!
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