Thanks! Mostly I was wondering whether I might be able to get away with a cyanoacrylate glue and just let it wick into the joint rather than all the hard work of doing it right 
Even if you have mediocre glue coverage the joints should be pretty strong. (My back of the envelope is to downrate from the roughly 1000psi of a proper joint, then figure how many square inches I’ve got. One of those fancy interlocks is probably close to 1 square inch of surface per linear inch of box…)
I’m into this plan, because wood glue was a serious hassle on something like this – you want to use as little as possible because of cleanup issues, but use too little and it’ll start to harden before you finish applying it to the long complicated edge.
I’d be slightly concerned about the CA wicking into the wood fibers themselves and making the joint unattractive or otherwise looking off due to interplay with whatever your final finish is, but I say give it a whirl and let us all know
In this case if you cut into the grain at a 45º angle it might help prevent it breaking so easily. Even running it at a 90º angle from what you had previously will strengthen it quite a bit, since the major connections will be running parallel to the grain.
Another option is to have a grain rotated backing piece (90º) to help strengthen that connection
These are incredibly inspirational. Love the ‘rules’ you’ve set and then the exploration that results.
That is some impressive work…how do you go about creating these images that you are cutting? Would love so see a tutorial video of it from designing to cutting.
I used inkscape for everything. I find that granular process explanation of mechanics is a bit less useful because everyone has a particular workflow or set of tools. If I describe it in detail some people will know what I mean and think it makes perfect sense and lots more will either be like “what?” Or “oh that’s a dumb way to do it”.
Ultimately it’s all just pretty simple path and node manipulation. it goes like this:
Draw a rectangle the size of your test cut.
Convert to a path. Add nodes to the vertical sides.
Draw a curve that looks pleasing to you along the middle joining your two nodes. This will be your butt joint line.
-Now break your rectangle at those middle nodes and turn it into two “U” shapes, one up and one down.
Copy and paste the entire thing so you have two working copies.
Delete the top half of the rectangle from one copy, delete the bottom half from the other.
Join the butt curve to the remaining halves and now you have your two shapes. Kerf adjust and go.
So there you go, my relatively simple process. Hopefully you find it useful.
I am not very familiar with Inkscape yet, but I do get the jist of what you are saying and it does seem fairly straight forward…now if I can just learn the programs. Thanks for the info!
Anyone feeling particularly ambitious? This would make a really difficult butt joint design:
A fractal rabbit hole is a nice concept !
Bu t I don’t think I’ll go down that one.
John 
Ok… I’m still enamored with this… and something popped up in a random pinterest session that reminded me of this.
Legit RABBITHOLE WARNING!
Searching “quilting pantographs” will bring a ton of brain itching patterns that I THINK will work with this joining technique. Not all of them, but many of them. Holy moly! I can’t turn this thing* off! (*brain)
YOUR FAULT this time @evansd2! 
That is indeed a deep, deep hole you just uncovered…
Ohhhh, this is gonna be fun! 
Oh snap. This one:
https://www.urbanelementz.com/quilting-designs/pantographs-e2e/a-little-bit-this.html
Do it!!! Do it NOW!!!
At some point you might think inlay rather than joints.
As per my “rules” in the original post, there were to be no freefloating parts, so it isn’t really inlay. Complicated joints use a lot of the same skills and design principles, but to me it’s not inlay until you have “islands”.
See my other posts for inlay work, such as my Phoenix:
Or my Aries box:
Hi. I have an Accuslice and can cut wood to any thickness including 1/8 " thick. I am curious about the swirl pattern. if you but the two woods together did you reverse the pattern or cut one and did an overlay on the second piece of wood to create cut lines?
Your question is answered in the thread already, you should go back and read everything, but here are a couple of pull quotes that are relevant:
And as for path manipulation and process:
BUT! I have since changed my method here. Note, this is all in Inkscape.
I don’t use the subtraction method anymore, because of deficiencies in Inkscape. It’s not terrible but I don’t always like how Inkscape manages nodes when you do booleans. Sometimes it’s so bad that it ruins the path and offsetting gets weird, so now my new technique is to do this:
1,2. Make my desired curve exactly as I want it. I started with a rectangle and manipulated the side with the node tool.
4,5: Join the now isolated curve to its mated shape using direct node manipulation.
Kerf adjust both pieces, and you’re good to go.
For a ton more of info on these techniques and some practical examples, look at my series of posts about trays. In no particular order:
Some other relevant posts that rely on the techniques here in some way:
Did I miss one of your posts - how does one do "light constant kerf correction?
