Has any one had a pro model that had a 40 watt tube? In another post [Plus 40-watt? What?] talking about the plus will now have a 40w tube instead of the 45w tube. Some one posted that Dan stated to check what size tube you had, to do the statement below. Plus 40-watt? What?
“Probably the simplest way is to look at the Proofgrade settings. Open a design with a cutline, choose Medium Draftboard, and next to Proofgrade Cut click the arrow. If it says 183 speed, it’s a 45 watt tube. If it says 168, it’s a 40 watt tube.”
Just being curious i checked my pro, and if you go by the statement above, my Pro unit has a 40 watt tube in it. Also here is a little bit of a back story. My original Pro unit was replaced, due to a door hinge problem. My original unit ran with out ever having to stop to cool down, the replacement unit seems to have to cool down all of the time. That being said it worry's me that i may have a 40 watt tube, or some other issue. Side note, my unit gets very little use.
Sorry if I misunderstood. It was addressed to “all,” and didn’t actually state a problem that I could see. (Your last paragraph appeared to be an unfinished sentence when viewed on my phone - not sure what you did there!)
It has to pause and cool down on almost every print. I had a problem with my lid / door on my original unit coming apart, and i just wanted them to send me a lid and i was going to just replace it myself. My old unit ran great, and i was scared that i would get a refurbished unit that had other problems then just the door coming apart. I should of just fixed the lid myself. My old unit ran and never had to stop to cool down, this replacement unit has to stop all of the time. Because of this i have not run this unit since 12/2018, along with being really busy with work and being a single father to two children. This unit is in the same environment the original unit was in. That being said, i will be running the unit for extended periods of time to see if i continue to have problems.
Well, there are a couple of things that you do need to check for if the machine is pausing frequently for cooling.
First thing is to make sure that the ambient temperature in the room is within the recommended range. (Pro’s can go up to 81° F, but because a long job will cause the machine to heat up significantly, I’ve found that keeping the air temperature at around 76° or so is optimum.)
Second thing is to check the exhaust to make sure that it is not blocked. A prime candidate is the grid behind the exhaust fan, and in order to see it, you have to disconnect the hose and look at it from behind the machine. If that is clogged it doesn’t let the hot air out, so it needs checking and cleaning periodically. (You can use a vacuum hose attachment and brushes/pipe cleaners to unclog it.)
Third thing to check is the air intake…if something (like a piece of paper that got sucked in or storing things around the base of the machine) is blocking the intake at the right side of the machine underneath it can cause overheating.
Fourth thing to check is the hose itself and the outlet port to make sure those are clean. (If something has nested in there, it’s going to block the air flow out.) You want the hose to be as short as possible, and no more than two 90° bends in it.
So check those things out to make sure it’s not something simple that you can fix now. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you’ll want to open a new thread in Problems and Support, and let them know that you’ve checked all of these things. (Tell them up front, in the first post, so they don’t tell you to do it again and waste more time waiting for them to get back to you.)
And it might help you to know why they didn’t let you install your own glass…the machines and power supply have to be calibrated after the glass is installed if you want it to work correctly with the interface, and that’s not something you can do at home.
Hope that fixes it, and if not, let support know about the cooling problem.
