Rubber Stamp Lessons Learned

Many people use either Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape. As Illustrator would run me $20/month, I use Inkscape.

Thanks for the info. Learning Inkscape now.

Thank you for the settings.
All worked perfectly!
2 passes are essential!

Made that to my sister in law to stamp her kids school books!

It says: “This book belongs to blah blah and blah blah”

19 Likes

Ooh! Like the spiral text! :grinning:

3 Likes

long thread with lots of info. What material and settings did you end up using?

thanks!
Jeff

1 Like

Hi there, I’ve used this material:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162577376592

And used the settings he mentioned, worked perfectly.
For the engrave and cut I did two passes ! (the cut just to make sure) or you can try reducing the speed of the cutting part.

Settings:

Power: 70%
Speed: 340 speed
Two passes

Cut :
Speed: 200
Power: Full
Maybe two passes.

21 Likes

I see that though it’s Chinese origin, they say item location is GB, and a delivery in three days.
Is that your experience, with a quick delivery ? I’m assuming your UK based because of the link !
John :upside_down_face:

Hi, It was around 4 days to be delivered! Didn’t take that long!

Thanks. I’m getting some now - good for stock !
:upside_down_face:

What was the depth of the material used here?

Hi Lizabeta, I’ve used a 2.3mm

1 Like

This stuff is the RUS001 from Johnson Plastics, with a thickness of .09".

2 Likes

What lines per inch did people use?

(I’m going to try 225, the default… assuming that’s what was used)…

1 Like

That’s what I used. Two passes was key.

1 Like

Here’s my go at a rubber stamp.

13 Likes

Well…how’s it work!! :yum:

Hi All – just browsing the forums and came across this post about laser cutting rubber. First, very cool designs and ideas, so kudos for the creativity and follow-through. Second, I wanted to offer a PSA for the community… A few years back I looked into cutting various rubbers and discovered that many of them have chlorine as part of their molecular structure. The rule of thumb is that when chlorinated rubbers burn they emit chlorine gas, which is super-duper toxic. Even under well-ventilated conditions, you need to be super careful about it. Moreover, if you generate enough chlorine gas, it can lead to corrosion. For the project I ended up working on, I was able to find chlorine-free rubbers, but I was surprised how hard it was. For folks around here that might not have the opportunity to talk to EH&S experts at work, please be careful when working with rubbers!

5 Likes

That’s why we use laserable rubber blanks…

Good advice… safety with rubbers…thanks for the tips…

5 Likes

@DesignsByPhil – ::facepalm:: D’oh!

That said, for the folks who haven’t had much experience with mandated EH&S lab safety training in their lives and are working as an at-home hobbyist, it’s good standard practice to look up the chemical composition of new plastics/rubbers/elastomers/etc before buying just to make sure chlorine gas isn’t going to be a problem.

[unrelated side note – I haven’t gotten any of the PG acrylics yet, but to my mind, one of the advantages of purchasing through the GF store is that a lot of the chemical safety issues including burnt plastics or burnt wood treatments are presumably addressed behind the scenes at GF when they picked items to stock in the catalog of materials. ]

2 Likes

I know what you mean. I’m stocked up.

5 Likes