Sake cups

projectinspo

#1

I think a great GF idea would be sake cups :grin: Maybe wood like hickory and simple finger joints :+1:


#2

I’ll be making some for my brother’s restaurant.

www.krakencongee.com

I know we’ve got at least one person that makes wooden tankards. Tips on keeping everything food safe?


#3

I really want to know this too!


#4

That’s like three blocks from my office! I’ll have to check it out.


#5

I think you hit the problem on the head. As far as I know they are not used much because of sanitary reasons. That is why I want to make one because a long time ago I asked if I could have one at a restaurant that clearly showed sake cups with names on them and they said they no longer offered them for the reason I gave :slightly_frowning_face:

So I don’t know how/if they can be cleaned.

That actually reminds me of an episode of MAS*H


#6

I think the traditional Japanese ones are made of cedar? No reason the Glowforge can’t cut that. And if you are making them for yourself you can put whatever you want on the outside.

Our favorite sushi place here still uses them.
http://www.mashikorestaurant.com/

Edit, looks like they were traditionally cypress wood. http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/general-discussion/masu-boxes


#7

I did a search and found that TightBond III is food grade glue.

Not sure 'bout rabbit skin glue tho :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Stradivari from what I found probably used casin or fish glue. But on the other hand we don’t as a rule eat :violin: :grin:


#8

I think if you were really careful and did a lot of experimenting you could probably get away with no glue at all. Especially with a soft wood like cedar or cypress. An interference fit and some gently persuasion… :hammer:


#9

I like that idea! Maybe use a sacrificial block of wood to evenly distribute the “persuasion” :grin:


#10

Can vouch for Kraken Congee being amazing, even if you’re not normally into Congee. We’ve had it delivered to the Glowforge offices for lunch. Yum.


#11

Cool! Gonna have to check that spot out. The veggie dishes sound pretty tasty!


#12

There’s gotta be some tricks to it. I think I remember that the tankards are finished with something like a food safe shellac.

(fyi, schellac is technically not a vegetarian friendly product.)


#13

Shellac generally doesn’t protect against moisture of any kind, and in particular dissolves readily in alcohol. I’ve used tung oil in the past, but, it takes a very long time to cure and believe it would flavor the sake. If the Japanese use any kind of finish for these, other than an extremely tight fit, it would probably be some arcane lacquer formulation.


#14

I think I’m the one you were referring to? (Pirate Treasure Chest)

@gernreich was correct when he said that Titebond III is food safe.

I don’t stain or dye the wood for any of my wooden mugs. I coat the interior of my mugs with a food safe Epoxy. I chose Epoxy over beeswax, shellac, lacquer, linseed oil, mineral oil, and others due to the ability to put hot beverages into the mug. Most of the other finishes will deteriorate quite quickly when exposed to temperatures needed for coffee, hot chocolate, mulled drinks, and other hot beverages. I coat the exterior with lacquer since that is supposed to also be food-safe.

one note, Sake cups are small, and when I’ve tried to make shotglasses using my slat wood technique, they tend to shatter when I go to round over the lip of the cup. Next time I’ll be rounding the edge over by hand vs a router.


#15

The very few I’ve seen seem to just use an interference fit. It’s a ritual thing, after all. If they used a lacquer, it might be a little like taking a chance on fugu – I know there’s at least one formulation where the artists who use it know they won’t live that long…


#16

Epoxy and lacquer, eh? I’ll do some reading. Thanks!


#17

Cool! Did not realize there was food grade epoxy!


#18

There are several, here is one of them: https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/max-clr-24-oz-epoxy-resin-food-safe-fda-compliant-clear-high-impact-coating/

Master Bond puts out another one. Although as long as the epoxy isn’t going to flake and break up, many others would also work (the difference of epoxy coating a cup that only contacts liquids vs an epoxy coated plate that would have to contend with forks and knives). If the Epoxy is at least safe for bartop use, then it’s not going to “Leech” any toxins into the food, it’s the ingestion of the epoxy that could be the most problematic.