I tried Googling, but no luck. So I turn to my community for help! Guess what… You’re my community! 
I figure we’re such a diverse group, somebody’s gotta know something! Anybody know anything about thermostat wiring?
My old thermostat has L1, T1, L2, T2. My new thermostat has L1, N1, N, L. If it matters, this is for electric baseboard heating.
Question 1: Can I even use New Thermostat?
Question 2: If so, what wires to what?
Thanks for any help!
this looks about right:
Thanks for that. But…
My old one looks just like the image in that video. But the new one is exactly this:
It looks like N is the incoming neutral, and L is the load to the thermostat, with N1 being neutral from the thermostat to the heater, and L1 load from the thermostat to the heater.
L1 and N1 are on the load side as indicated so those would be the wires going to the heater.
A US manufacturer would label them as L1, L2, T1, T2 as you noted, because L1 and L2 are the incoming Line power. L1 and L2 are both “hot legs” of our split phase power system and measure 240v across them, as opposed to 120V if measuring L1 to Neutral.
This T-stat manufacturer is non-US based, and outside the US most countries don’t use a split phase system so they only have a single hot leg with the full 220/230v on it, and a Neutral… Therefore, their labels on this product reflect their local power system. ie: L, L1, N, N1.
Long story short, it should work, assuming you have a black (L1) and red (L2) wire coming in from the panel board - this means it’s a 240V supply. If you have a white wire in there, that’s a Neutral and it can only “produce” a 120V source.
That’s a great explanation! I finally found an article that tells me that N is Neutral, L is Line, and N1 and L1 are the heater side of N and L. In other words, L1 connects to L when the switch is on. So I guess now my question is… If I have a 110V system, will it still work with this thermostat?
That depends on the thermostat. Just looking at the photo you shared, I would say yes, because it is rated for up to 230V. The T-stat is just switching line voltage on and off so long as the incoming voltage matches the voltage rating of the heaters themselves, you’re OK. Since you’re not changing the heater and the system worked before (right?) you should be good.
The only caveat is if the control circuitry inside the t-stat is expecting 230V. It’s not going to pose any safety risk with the 110v, but it may work fine, or poorly, or not at all. Without a detailed spec sheet from the manufacturer it is hard to say for sure.
Thanks! Shame I won’t get to work with it until the weekend now. I really want to try this thing out. It’s super-cheap (like $25!), digital, programmable, and WiFi-enabled! It it works I’m going to replace all of them throughout the house.
Just to not leave people hanging on the edge of their seats about this…
I finally had a moment to hook this up last night. It works! So I do have a 220V system. I connected hot to L, neutral to N, then the heater side to L1 and N1. Worked great. Took some tinkering to get the phone app to work, but when I did it worked better than I expected. Allows me to control the heater both home and away. It’ll be great when I fill the house with these things and be able to control the heat when the kids say “Oh… I forgot to turn down my heater before we left.”
Only “issue” is it appears to be in ºC only. I found no way to switch to ºF. Also haven’t found a way to make it work with Alexa. And I know of no API to write the Alexa skill myself. Oh well. For $25 this thing is pretty awesome regardless.
If anybody’s interested in these things, the model number appears to be “JY01642”. No known manufacturer. I’ve seen them available on ebay and aliexpress, etc. I ordered mine from Walmart online.
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