Traveling with a Glowforge



Suggest you ride in the back of the camper over a few bumps to cage the ride. You might be surprised at how good or bad it is. Mine is bad. Of course illegal to do that in most states.

Last weekend.


That’s a good idea. Once it’s road worthy again, one of us might have to try that.

On a side note, as kids, my brother and I always traveled in the camper on our way to and from. One time, I saved up my allowance and bought myself a box of fruit loops, (as we never got sugary cereal), and I had the box with me on the way out to the bushes…I ate the whole friggin’ box before we even got there, one handful at a time…and made myself sick. I couldn’t eat fruit loops again for years, still don’t really like them.


Ha! Love me some Dr Who! We are still working on a theme for ours, trying to find something we won’t get tired of staring at quickly.

Cute trailer btw!


Like yours, complete rot 9 months ago.


I think you’ll want something comparable to the shipping box…


Oh man. Lots of work, but worth it! How long did it take from start (tear down) to finish?
Ours currently looks like a flatbed. And I think we are even going replace that. We are both pretty good with construction…of buildings. A trailer is a first for us. We are currently trying to figure out the electrical (going solar) and plumbing. It was originally only propane…and gravity fed water. Lots to learn!
I’ve heard butyl tape will be our best friend, so I just ordered some last night.
I’ve been scouring vintage trailer forums of people that have already done what we are just starting.
I can’t wait to leave…with my glowforge! (maybe)


Which I will hopefully be able to check out soon! :smiley: If it’s not to complicated, or huge, I guess I could just travel with it in the box. That’s an idea. Thanks!


Took me about 5 weeks. Didn’t know what I was doing at first. Did not replace the floor. Replaced all of the top wood from bumper to bumper, 1/3 of the right side and segments of the left side. Took out the propane because we don’t cook inside. Too greasy. Threw a microwave inside for emergencies (when there is power). Of course we don’t live in the camper either. Yes, butyl tape at all corners and joints.

Lots of step by step restoration videos on youtube.

It’s just a rolling tent for us, not a work of art.


We started on the inside, and worked our way out to the skin, removing that too. We did it backwards. Although, we weren’t planning on stripping it down that far, but decided we couldn’t just patch the rot. We are in the middle of framing it back up. I am praying that we get it right and the skin fits back on with no serious problems.
I’ll have to post some pics when we are done, of the process and finished result.
And 5 weeks is pretty fast! Good job!


If you replace the axle, get a torsion axle and not a spring axle @shronimo. They ride much smoother and don’t bounce as much. Dexter makes a good product. They are a surprisingly inexpensive component of the overall cost of a trailer, a few hundred dollars for the axle and spindles, a little more if you get brakes. They also have various angle drops so you can control the height of your trailer above the road. Good luck!


Good to know! Thank you!


Glowforge with no filter pulls “800 watts peak and average of 300 watts running” according to the FAQ page. That’s not a lot of power if you are connected to the mains, but that is a lot of power when you are running solar panels and a battery bank. You may find the number of batteries needed is prohibitive from a space & cost standpoint.
If you can mount a small diesel generator into the camper as part of the buildout, I would urge you to do that. You can often find them for pretty cheap from folks parting out an old camper. Otherwise you may want to look at one of the little honda EU2000i generators. No need to fire it up every time you need power; solar panels and a pair of deep-cycle batteries will suffice for lighting (with LEDs) and phone charging (but unplug the charger when you are done charging). Just fire it up when you are running the glowforge, if you need to top off/balance the batteries, or if you have other power tools or power-hungry things to run.
For example, if you are running a fridge off of electricity it will suck power down. If you run a fridge off of propane you need to plan for where to store the tank (or tanks if you can swing the space). If you run an ice chest you need to plan for stopping and refilling with ice.
Of course, if you are parking it in places where you can hook up to shore power, you don’t have these issues.


We got one 100 watt solar panel, and 2 6v deep cycle batteries. We do have a little generator but I don’t know much about that. We will also have a propane tank for the stove…and possibly the fridge, if we can find one that won’t break the bank.
I’m going to guess that most of the places we’d be using the glowforge, will probably be where/when we are connected to outside power.

Thank you for all of the info. I will be referencing back to this thread at a later date.


Seeing you’re building from the frame up and you’re going to create a spot for the GF, why not build some dampening devices into the table or shelf it will sit on. While you’re at it make sure you have a method to secure it while traveling. Could be as simple as nylon straps and snap clips.


Plus use the shipping doodads that come with it (the orange rubber thingies and the set screws) which are designed to hold things from bouncing around. Plus you can remove the head in 2 secs and put in a padded box as well. I’d put a padded thing underneath (foam) to absorb shocks like in the box.


Recently I’d had to pack up our PRU to take it into work for a talk. I used the original box and the supplied hardware to keep the gantry in place. Then muscled it downstairs. Then out to the car. Then drive it 45 mins on I-95. Then across the parking lot (the parking structure has those ‘nipples’ embedded into the concrete to provide traction for cars when it snows.) then into a building to take out the box. Then have a room full of people man-handle it. Then load it back into a box. Then back to a car. Then transferred to my car. Then drove back on 95. Then muscled back into the house. Once I got everything hooked up I did a test cut and everything worked as advertised.

So if you use the box that it came in (or better) and the supplied hardware it was shipped in. You should be fine.


Thanks guys! Sounds like it is feasible!! :nerd: :squee:
With the help of the packaging it comes in.


Found this old topic on the same topic.


Even just towing on paved roads, I think you probably want to see the state of affairs of the inside of the camper after you’ve got a fair ways at a decent speed before you make your decision.

Not sure where you are, but around here even paved roads can be a hazard to your tires and suspension, and that’s leaving aside things like speed bumps and raised crosswalks.

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