Hi. I am not sure this is the correct place to ask. I want to make some wood pins. What glue would be best to glue metal backs to the wood fronts? Does anybody know? Thank you in advance?
Yes, this is the correct place to ask.
Okay, anytime you ask “best,” that is bait for an argument ; let me throw a few ideas out to get us started.
E6000 works great, and many people love it, but it outgases VOCs something fierce so have a well-ventalated area to use it.
Then there are epoxies, and most longer cure epoxies do a good job with dissimilar things like wood and metal.
A final thought from me, for now, construction adhesives such as liquid nails. It works great but is generally hard to find in smaller containers for hobby/craft use.
I use and like Hardman Double Bubble epoxies. They come in a variety of sizes, including little “one-shot” packs. You can select different types for different materials. They also have a convenient chart to help you select which epoxy is better for which material. Double Bubble Orange is excellent for wood to metal.
I use a very thin and transparent double sided tape and apply it BEFORE I cut on the glowforge. That way I don’t need to use glue after the cut and the whole piece will be able to stick down to the other medium.
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000184745962.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7d52643crXaJkN&algo_pvid=21752e51-7a21-4752-9516-0701d4af84b9&algo_expid=21752e51-7a21-4752-9516-0701d4af84b9-22&btsid=0b0a01f816089880205175855ea1ce&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ This is what I use instead of the much more expensive 3M. Works great and only have to minimally tweak settings.
Thank you all for the replies. I have some e6000 so will try that. I wasn’t sure how it did on wood. Thank you again!
For some, this is true. I have never successfully used it to permanently adhere metal to wood when making wood pins, but that may be due to me making an engraved “hole” for the pin to sit in. The glue hardens to about a strong hot glue level, then breaks away under stress tests.
The highest success rate I’ve had is by rough sanding the metal of the pin, dabbing some of my favorite super glue in the hole and then putting the pin in.
The stress test is the most important part, in my opinion. I just give it a full day or so, depending on how strapped for time I am, I may just give it around 5 hours. Anyway, I try and break the pin away with my fingers to be sure that it’ll hold up to daily use, and if it passes the test, I ship them out.
When I make knives, I use a high strength two-part epoxy.
What you will need to remember though is that the bond, no matter what you are using to adhere the parts, is dependent on surface area. If you have a small surface area, you are better off creating a mechanical retention. Either sandwich your pin shaft flange between two layers that can be laminated together to retain the flange or use more epoxy to cover the top of the flange. When the epoxy hardens, this will reinforce the joint and help keep the pin from breaking.
You can also get better joints by roughing the surfaces to be joined to give some features for the epoxy or other adhesive to hold on to.
I didn’t even bait the trap.
I’d tend to agree with this, E6000 needs plenty of air to fully cure.
I’ve had trouble with rapid fuse but like all things, your results may vary.
My first encounter with CA glue was probably before many glues above existed. I had made a copper Koala climbing on a bit of driftwood that went of at an angle so had a copper base filled with lead. Thinking about it now I might have drilled with a screw in place but I was trying to use glue, and nothing would hold, and as I was overheard in the gallery someone had this brand new stuff in their purse that decided to show off and dang if it not only worked but was solid for as long as I knew of it.
It was more the copper to all the earlier attempts at glue than to wood so the two surfaces were parallel matched but it was great.
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