Your best bet on this is to edit the photo and then take a 100% crop of the areas you want to test, such as the eyes.
Using vary power is good if you have a design for a relief carving. these are very special and look a bit weird in the image. If the image is normal then (if you are doing a face say) the half in the sun will be high and the kalf in the shade will be low and if your eye sees that in 3D it definitely looks weird. As for color deeper is not necessarily darker as it should clean up to about the same, with the possible exception of sharp drop-offs that are harder to clean, and thus weirder still.
The point of dot dithering is that all the dots are equally dark, but those closer together appear darker and a photo of that face will have the different areas of darkness but not different heights. Also as every dot is the same depth from lightest to darkest area will make it through any masking and leave a cleaner image (getting the masking off is harder but gorilla tape or hand sanitizer will do an excellent job of that,)
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Agreed. Most living subject images don’t 3D engrave well.
They have to be prepped perfect, and then the perfect min/max settings, and then require a lot of luck on top of those two. With the right material.
Wood only holds so many burn shades. Say maybe 6-8 shades for “good” material. So, your image will look like a 6-color GIF basically. Then the edit has to be perfect so that the grayscale values fall into the right territory for those shades to appear.
The caveat to that is the extreme HDR or cartoon-style approach where you’re basically defining subjects with outlines rather than defining shades.
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I just finished this today, for my teacher, who is leaving
And yeah, the faces came out a little weird, but it’s fine over all
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Vary power makes weird that way, very high LPI dots will do better for that.
You’re right, I did a different one today, came out great!
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