Won't cut all the way through

I don’t cut a ton of proofgrade, but when I do I just use the auto settings with no adjustments. I’ve had a problem once or twice, where one area failed to cut through, but it was because the material was warped and I was too lazy to tape it down.

But I have only had my glowforge since December. If youre suspecting some sort of overall loss of power (which I definitely don’t have - settings for nonproofgrade I figured out months ago still work perfectly), someone who got theirs summer 2017 would prob be a better judge.

Edit: forgot to mention I live in Georgia. Less humid that some places, but a lot more humid than others.

You should consider posting your poll somewhere else. Posting it in a thread about material not cutting through is probably a bit of a biased audience - a lot of people might not read threads that dont pertain to them.

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I’m in NY so I don’t think dry air would be the issue. I’ve had a couple warped pieces and try slightly bending them back. I keep reading that people with this issue use magnets to hold the board in place. Can anyone elaborate on this a little more or provide a picture of their print setup with the magnets in place?

I’m nervous to lower the speed on the cut because during the print, I noticed the flame was rather larger than usual. I felt a little uneasy about the flame size while watching the cut. Has this happened to anyone else?

this, for the most part. i occasionally have a smaller issue, but it’s almost always the flatness. and it’s always on wood, not on acrylic, which helps reinforce that for me.

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I prefer the honeycomb pins - they work better than magnets for flattening out the material. (Tried both. Like the pins.)

I haven’t had a single sheet of PG fail to cut through since I started using them, so yeah, it’s probably the warp.

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The little hold-downs the @eljefe4 designed and shared work great for me and really flatten the piece and ensure it does not move. This was the post Honeycomb bed holdown pins

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Thanks for the link! I’ll definitely try these out

They are great… one of my first steps in making a puzzle is to just cut out the whimsical pieces from the board. After I cut those, I put the hold downs in the holes left by those pieces, so I have a sheet of goods that is basically held down on the exterior and interior by them.

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I like to peg the interior too. Most folks might not realize yet that once you cut something out of the middle of a sheet, you’ve got increased warping and twisting forces going on in the leftovers. Those pegs are da :bomb:!

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I recall you saying that you reduce the speed by 10% on Proofgrade cuts. Is that still true?

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Would these help with warp towards the middle of the board? I have medium sized pieces with smaller cuts and engraves within it. All the cuts and engraves are on a single file

Haven’t needed to lately since I started using the pins. (UNLESS I’m cutting something with extremely tight small curvy cuts. That’s just a bit of extra insurance from habit after years of doing it with digital cutters. So put that one down to outside experience.)

Come to think of it, I had no trouble at all with the little 3 mm circles I cut yesterday, and they weren’t slowed down - I just used the defaults. (Board was pinned.)

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Ok thanks for the info. I have had to reduce the speed on all my proofgrade cuts since we got the machine. However last night I was testing some thick proofgrade draftboard for the first time and I used the default settings. It cut through without any trouble. First time ever. Up until now all my cuts have been in meduim proofgrade materials.

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Yes.

Even just doing the perimeter of the board helps quite a bit… but, with the cuts I’m doing, they have the potential to release tension within the board causing it to “warp” during the middle of a cut.

My typical cut process looks like this (discourse hates vertical images, apparently, must click to see rest):

I cut out pieces on the interior in one file operation and then pin down on the interior. Then, I run the rest of the file in the order that I want.

(These are manual settings because it’s non-PG material.)

Try pinning the sheets down using those honeycomb pins…I swear I could just kiss the guy who designed 'em!

(Sorry @eljefe4 …don’t get panicky, I don’t know where you are.) :wink::smile:

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Thank you for this! Hoping its my solution

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I need to look at this project of yours as I would rather have a server setup that is able to handle my use when the main ones are down …

I’ve had a chunk of sticky tack next to my unit for this! Saves on the tape!

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I thought it was me…since I’m a total laser virgin. I have only had successful cuts doing the first tutorial/try-these-out types of things (had the unit for just a month now - I delayed shipment hoping that some kinks would be worked out…).

I have been trying to cut on a proofgrade maple plywood - nope, I got a nice, deep engrave , though. I slowed the speed down…nada. I used those little honeycomb tabs (freaking love those), didn’t help.

I’m in Seattle, so maybe humidity is a factor, but it looks SO DANG FLAT and ANNNDD I used the magic honeycomb tabby things.

Kinda leaves you feeling deflated, doesn’t it?

If you’re having a problem with it not cutting through, you need to start a new ticket (all your own) in the Problems and Support section so they can create a ticket for you. :slightly_smiling_face:

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