Due to the dreaded Air Assist Fan Error, a 50-minute job using a whole sheet of 20x12 material stopped midway with the head near center of bed. The fans kept running but the head was Paused.
Is there any way to recover from this condition and complete the job?
Magnets were used at the periphery of the material and usually have not caused any problems. In the above case, if a magnet were the problem, opening lid and removing the magnet, then continuing might have saved having not to discard the material and start with new material.
That is why I do not use magnets anymore. It saves on having to discard the ruined material. If the material is worth the effort you might try to put already done parts on ignore, and try to align it again and go from there. If the material is ruined it will not be re-ruined.
If a magnet was strong enough to trigger the response It would likely have not cut through at that point anyway and ruined it differently, or perhaps started a fire and ruined your day as well.
Good suggestion on Ignore previously printed parts before shutdown error, and then start over.
Problem was that six copies were being printed with each copy having the same three colors; one for artwork, one for slots for joins, and one for perimeters of the pieces. The error occurred midway through cutting kerfed slots, so re-cutting previously cut slots would spoil fits. If a Continue were possible after opening the lid, the job could restart where it stopped.
Now I will use wood pins for hold-downs AND color each piece with different sets of three colors
If you properly set up perimeter pins that are snug but not overhanging (beyond those that are holding the material down) you can restore the material to exactly where it was. When I am planning for it, I set the lower right corner to the lowest number of decimal points reasonable (say 19,5 - 10.75) and if possible perpendicular / parallel to the side rail.
Then even if it is a week later. if you can put the scrap part back to exactly the same place on the crumb tray and the numbers exactly the same in the window, the laser will redo exactly the same cut, no matter what it looks like in the window.
Then by making a score at say 6 power and maximum speed, it will leave a mark that should not even make it through the masking paper but will verify the location. Rotation is actually much harder to get right, but I was able to cut out a 3" wide piece with many fingers from a 3.0? piece of wood that left only a paper thin line at the end of each finger. It took a couple of hours to get it that precise (rotation being the most difficult part) but getting that part from that piece of wood (being the only piece of sufficient dimension species ect. available) was worth the effort. So precision is available, even to recut the same cut that was not properly accomplished the first time.
This is the “left overs” from the piece mentioned…
If you save and make a copy you can delete the parts already cut and continue. It is possible to delete the parts already done and then undo all the changes, but that too is dangerous as if you leave the page, it will save at that condition and lose the undo.
However, if I have the original still on the computer, then erase-cut-undo might be worth the risk, as it is quick and easy.
What I do is to open another window (which likely loses undos to that point) then go to the make a copy which will open you to the GFUI where the other window was but it is a copy and not the original.
As you can see in the photo, I wanted to place a round 4" coaster at the best point to fit three (it won’t fit 4) such that I can fit two more as low as possible, but since each is a separate design I am not cutting all at once. and this gives me the coordinates,
