Did this tonight…
And the question of settings came up. So here’s the scoop…
This board was .4" thick bamboo. I hadn’t used it before and I didn’t do any tests. Usually I test new materials rather extensively. But I didn’t have any to spare, so… I figured I’d base my settings on 
Thick Maple Ply. As such, I used 1000/100/340. It turned out just the way I wanted it… Great contrast, yet not too deep.
Just gotta figure out how to translate that into figures I can use on my machine…lol
I must say, even as a complete noob laser owner, I feel ridiculous saying 1000. I cringe not being able to apply a real-world unit of measure.
1,000 = 335ipm 
@Tom_A if you want to experiment, Lowe’s Home Improvement has 4" x 4" x 0.420" thick solid bamboo flooring sample chips for 25 cents each. Pick up a dozen, have some fun
I tried cutting through one and that was a big negatory… after 12 passes at full tilt and getting about 1/8" into it, I got bored with the test. LOL.
Yeah still not useful…lol
Universals have 0-100% for power and speed
Then dpi and ppi
100%. 
Wow. Yeah I really should. My Wife picked up these boards yesterday and I had no idea they were bamboo until earlier tonight. I can’t believe you couldn’t get through at 12 passes?! Geez!
Yeah, I even called my dad because he’s the woodworker in the family.
His response: “Yeah, there’s a reason they’re making cutting boards out of it.”
The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. It measures the force required to embed an 11.28 millimetres (0.444 in) diameter steel ball halfway into a sample of wood. This method leaves a hemispherical indentation with an area of 200 mm2.
While that puts bamboo around 1300-1400, similar to oak. Lots of references say that strand woven bamboo is usually between 4000-5000!
My only, “Oh sh*te” moment with the GF so far was a bamboo cutting board. Let’s just say it got a bit hot 
Interesting thing is that bamboo isn’t really a traditional wood…its a reed. And those pieces are layered together. The hardness seems to come from the long fibers…reminds me of celery…lol
I assumed as much. That’s why I figured going with the settings of Thick Maple Ply would be my best bet.
That’s interesting 'cause this sample piece I have is darn near impenetrable. Yes there was a small flame but still way less than with paper masking on non-PG acrylic. I thought I’d have problems but I had to give it full power and two passes to engrave. My first test using PG settings barely even tagged it.
My bet is since this was a piece of flooring, it’s probably made with a really tough binding resin and under high pressure to compact the strand fibers and make it solid as a rock.
For a comparison to other familiar woods, poplar is about 400 and balsa 100.
I just did the cutting boards recommended from the materials supply thread, and while a speed of 1000 is great, a power of 100 is a bit much. I had my best results with a power of 80. Otherwise, my settings were those that were indicated in the first thread.
Thanks for the help with the settings! I just did my own bamboo cutting board project for a friend’s company using your settings and it worked great.
Those are OUTSTANDING results. 
Thanks! I tried it on some larger boards and got even better results. This one turned out really nice!
Was that using the 1000/100/340 settings?
Great looking results! Thanks for sharing. While on the topic of settings, I’m wondering where to find the pre-selected settings when using a product on the GFUI. For example, if I choose “Medium Maple Plywood” where can I see the settings used for this product?
