You’ll probably have to see how many sheets you can zap at a time. Also, if the sheets are firmly compressed when you zap, that might avoid some smoke/flame issues.
Here’s another thought: since many hand-bound book sizes are made by folding, can you zap first and fold/bind later? Or even print/fold/bind later?
What if you cut an over sized acrylic “cover sheet” for front and back an used bolts to hold everything together? You would still have burned edges but would reduce the fire hazard
good idea - I may give that a try, starting with just a few sheets of paper at a time then adding in a few more each time to test, all while standing by with a fire hydrant!
If you master the book technique @bridget posted and like it, I have written a number of tutorials of even fancier patterns for Japanese stab binding on my blog! beccamakingfaces.com
There is a bookbinding method called sewing single sheets where you can use much thicker material, as the sewing creates more of a hinge than a traditional bind. I’ve used it to make “books” with 1/4" acrylic. And those holes can be laser cut! check out Keith A. Smith. He’s written several tutorial books on all kinds of binding techniques and styles.
I looked for your ‘gold foil’ reference, but couldn’t find it.
Can you point me to it, please ?
Gold foil work is of great interest to me, whatever the technology !
Regards
John
Heh pre-apology… the technology here looks to be the “Plastic squeeze-bottle technique” see the last photo in the tutorial from @bridget in this post from above.
Ah, jbv, I think I recognise the presence of Norfolk Gold, or may be better known as Coleman’s Mustard !
Very local, to both Bridget and myself, and the fields are just now turning yellow.
Hi, John.
Sorry about the confusion.
I have a feeling that the yellow fields are Rape, But the tea in my pot is still tea, so come and have a cup any time.