Thanks for the link. Transfer paper isnāt exactly cheap, either! Wow.
I ended up using a sheet of cardboard from a shipping box.
Itās well worth it. Youāll need it frequently, if you use any non-PG materials.
Did it work well enough for you? Hopefully, someone from GF support will respond with some additional suggestions. Iād love to get the results I see from the rest of the users here.
It worked fine. I had to run the process many times because of network issues that only surfaced during the calibration process, no issues before or since. I have masking, but the cardboard is free.
If you want support to chime in, youāll need to start a new thread (or send an email). They donāt typically monitor existing discussions.
Thanks, yes I saw @danās post that recommending contacting support or posting again in Support.
What I think would be nice is to have a way to skip the marking step, so that if thereās a failure, users can perform lens cleaning, etc. and then reuse the draftboard that was already marked.
I used the Maple plywood for calibration and after used it for bed pins.
If I were to guess, the process is to place a mark on the board in a āknownā location then once all the marks are done they are āreadā to see where the mark actually landed and then that data is used to figure out the offset from where the mark was thought to be to where it was actually on the image captured. Moving the board or putting an old marked one it the would not work since the machine would not have a reference of where it thought it was placing the markā¦
My suggestion is made under the assumption that the board isnāt moved. If I literally just marked a brand new piece of draftboard and the calibration failed, I want more of a āretryā operation, and not a āstart all overā operation.
Got it, so in the case of a network failure trying to send the images ect to allow that to retry. I was thinking of the board re-use case starting the initial process.
It wouldnāt matter if you kept a previously marked board on-hand to re-calibrate. It uses the camera in the head to accurately determine where it needs to be to line up to the marks itās seen on the lid camera, then calculate the alignment from there.
You could throw the sheet in and just perform that part of the process occasionally. It doesnāt need to be recreated every time.
Well, I had to get some cuts done, but I unfortunately misplaced my lens removal tool, so I have to wait for the replacement to arrive. I ended up just using my existing markings to know where the physical boundaries are, and then did a low power pass on my cuts to make sure I could squeeze everything in. Itās a little more time consuming, but totally doable until I can figure out how to get my GF to calibrate.
Sorry - I meant, they could change the process so you could use a previously marked board. Just re-use it if it needed to be run again, instead of having to make a new one. The absolute position of the marks isnāt critical, itās only to align the head camera to the lid camera for material positioning. Nothing we can do about it except ask for changes.
Did you have to tell the machine how thick it was? I believe that is very important.
No, the machine uses autofocus - and there is nowhere to tell it during the procedure.
I cleaned all mirrors, the lens, and the camera, and tried to calibrate again today for the 3rd time. Iām still getting the same failure as @siv. Is there anything else I can try out?
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