Camera Calibration Miracle?


#1

Thursday, I sent a note to GF complaining about the alignment of my camera, which as you can see from this first screengrab is good left/right but off by about 1" top/bottom. Didn’t have a chance to play with the GF yesterday. Today I did another cut and miraculously the camera’s alignment is now almost perfect. I got an acknowledgement from GF on the support request but nothing more, though I can’t see how the calibration could change so much, and be exactly where it needs to be, all by itself… I’m assuming GF tweaked something on the server end, which is great, but I kind of wish they’d sent an email saying they’d fixed it. I wouldn’t have fretted so much about whether or not I was too close to the edge of the board before firing up this cut.

If anyone’s wondering what this is, it’s a 120mm micro-sized FPV (flown with video goggles) quadcopter.



#2

Yes they like to keep everything secret so it appears to be magic. They never say what is actually wrong when they fix a machine, or more often replace it.

It’s good that you now seem to have very accurate calibration. I wonder if they can tweak everybody’s machine to be that good if they ask.


#3

I hope to see more on the quadcopter!


#4

That’s the best post-cut alignment I have seen.

I’m arguing with myself over pulling the trigger on a Mavic Pro 2, and the Epson goggles with the heads-up display.


#5

If you aren’t an experienced flier, I would strongly recommend something smaller, and cheaper to learn on. This copter I’m making is 120mm across, so it’s tiny, maybe 1/4 the size of a Mavic. But it’s intended for high speed flight, no fancy autonomous features, just a camera, motors, a battery and a flight controller.

I designed this particular copter to be cut from Carbon Fiber. And I’ve also 3D printed with an FDM printer (I also have SLA, but that material lacks the necessary impact resistance for functional aircraft). It was easy to convert over to the GF, though I had to rethink some parts because thickness of each component is fixed by the board I’m cutting from. I’m curious to see how wood stands up to the inevitable crashes. It has a lot more flex than CF or FDM, which could actually be a good thing. It won’t be as robust as CF, but I break CF all the time. I can bang out frames from Maple ply in about 2 minutes if I skip the engraving. I can afford to break a lot more of these than CF versions.

Should have something flying in time for my weekly indoor fly on Tuesday!


#6

Cool!

Sound advice.


#7

I’ll take the magic if that is what it takes!


#8

I see you already emailed us about this and we’re working on it there, so I’m going to close this topic.


#9