I used the standard Inkscape stroke-to-path approach to adjust for kerf:
I also “flip mated” the pieces in an attempt to adjust for any kerf profile (the edges of a laser cut are slightly angled). That is, the inlay pieces were mirrored and cut from the opposite side than the pieces they set into.
I think this thread has some more tips on doing inlay with complex shapes:
I did several small test pieces to figure out exact settings for my materials and, to practice. I think I used maybe almost $2 USD worth of wood on the tests. So, I would definitely encourage that approach to get going and allay any anxiety.
There are several people active here who do inlay, if you run into problems and get stuck.