Cutting through white board

wondering the settings for cutting white board. I’ve searched throughout the community dashboard and cannot come up with some good settings. I realize, settings are different for every material and machine but sometimes I get a great cut, and other times, its terrible

I use white board from HD-speed 135 full power 2 paces material size .125 or .130

Can anyone help

I have moved your pos to beyond the manual, since we’re not to discuss settings in other categories. I made some game boards using this setting;
cut; 135 / full and engrave; 1000/80/270 lpi. Those seem to be the same settings that you tried, so not sure my answer will help.

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Most likely this is variability in the material.

The unfortunate truth is that when you buy stuff that isn’t designed for lasering or to have uniform thickness/composition you’re always going to have to test.

I tend to run a material test on every board and write the successful settings directly on the back of the material or color code the edges if I have a lot (like a stack of Baltic birch ply)

My testing method is pretty well known but if you haven’t seen it here you go, check out #6:

Once you have the job set up testing a new material is really fast and easy and consumes only a very small amount. It’s the best way to be sure, the time effort and materials used pay for itself by avoiding even one botched job.

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Whiteboard (also sold as chalkboard on one side, whiteboard on the other - B&W board) is typically made from “Hardboard”, which is a very low grade of manufactured wood similar to MDF. It is typically much more dense. Therefore fluctuations in material composition - even across the same panel - can make it difficult to work with.

It certain can be cut (and engraved) - I have used a fair bit of hardboard and the B&W board, the hardboard mostly for large-scale (Passthru) engravings thru paint with sometimes a cut outline. The B&W board I’ve used for making decorative things like sugar-skulls, as the white surface makes colors pop (primarily using alcohol-based markers or “alcohol ink”).

As evansd stated above, I also test pretty much every time before committing to any significant print job.

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Yes, I read your exact comment on another thread which I found very helpful. I really dive into my research when creating new products and using new materials. SOMETIMES I’m able to cut really crisp quality cuts with the whiteboard and other times, with the same settings, it’s terrible, so it is deceiving nonetheless.

I use a lot of white board with my creations which is frustrating because, as mentioned, sometimes I get quality cuts. Testing a cut prior to committing to a large project is a great idea, but if the material isn’t cutting, then the entire sheet cannot be used.

Thank you for the input. My settings to cut: 135 speed, full power, 2 paces. sometimes it works flawlessly, sometimes it doesn’t. Thank you everyone for the input

The variability of that stuff is insane. cuts through time A. time B… NOPE…

I just expect that I will have to deal with a partial cut and fix as required.

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Sounds reasonable. Back when I used a fair bit of it and my machine was still “firing on all cylinders”, my cut settings were 130/FULL, 1 pass.

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