Dragon Ball Ikea Cutting Board

I know these are done to death but I thought mine was pretty cool.

Inspired by the sweet Millennium Falcon in this post I decided to swing by IKEA and pick up a cutting board for a birthday gift.

Got this APTITLIG, 11" x 17 3/4" - basically the perfect size.

It’s 5/8" thick, so I took out the crumb tray and put 7/8" of stuff underneath it, set the focus to 0.01"

Using the same settings as the millennium falcon guy, this took an hour and a half.

I washed it with dish soap to get rid of the char and then rubbed it down with mineral oil (cutting board conditioner).

The only criticism I have is that the solid black areas are broken up by the grain of the wood.
So I’d probably avoid choosing designs that rely on large solid engraves.

This was my source file, for reference. I think I might have gone a bit overboard on the contrast, so I’d dial it back a bit on the next one.


Very cool!

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You may have already read this, but I would suggest not using the etched side for cutting, especially with all the detail, because of the difficulty cleaning the etching and also the damage to the etch caused by the knife and by attempting to get food debris out of the tiny cavities.



Wood is a natural antibiotic - so yes to possibly damaging the etching, but anything that’s small enough to get stuck in an etch (or a knife) line is unlikely to hurt you (presuming it was food in the first place!)

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Varies a lot with species. Tropical hardwoods face a tougher fight than far North species and thus stronger ability to ward off the critters, but some of those can be toxic to humans as well.


That’s a cool looking dragon!

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Your choice - while yes, the wood oils are naturally anti-biotic, they won’t handle relatively large amounts of food debris that can get caught in the small cracks and crevices of an etch. The difference between a knife cut in the wood and an etch is that the wood around a knife cut will swell back together to some degree, lessening the amount of stuff that can get in. An etch removes a relatively large amount of material and there will be sharp edges where it will take a wire brush to get in and clean. I just make sure to use the non-etched side.

Very nice thanks for the graphic.

I decided to do a millennium falcon one too!

I cleaned up the image a bit (I think it was scanned from a folded poster or something) and moved the label over to better fit the shape of the board.

Same settings as before.

It’s so satisfying!


Wow,! I have not seen such details before, Has anyone compared it to all the movies it is in? I know that there have been a lot of specifications to keep from having folk rattle off all the inconsistencies, but when writing new scripts there are always new quirks needed to fit the stories,

Is there some central location that such specifications are available?


This article details all the specifications with sources listed at the bottom. I don’t know exactly where this image is from though.

awesome ! are you able help out with the settings you used ? Please and Thank You.


Speed 1000, Power Full (I have a GF Basic) , Greyscale: Vary Power, Lines Per Inch: 225, Passes:1


Thank you so much !

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Looks great! I haven’t tried any bamboo yet with my Glowforge, as it hasn’t come in yet, but I did do some engravings with my old 2.5w diode laser. Just be sure to coat the engraved area with some mineral oil and you’ll be good. Not sure if that was mentioned or not.

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Moved to Beyond the Manual (per forum rules) so the non-PG settings can remain in place. :slight_smile: