I might want that… But I also want a wash and cure station for my 3D printer…
Wait, what? I thought it would cost thousands of dollars to be able to do this… now I have to read this thread and follow some links…
I’ve been having trouble lately with the paper sticking to the acrylic. What setting are you pressing at?
100 seconds at 180 degrees Celcius. The paper sticks most of the time, I just run it under the faucet and rub it off.
Gadgets be my crack
Do it! And don’t let the talk about having to “convert” an Epson to sublimation deter you. The “conversion” only consists of not putting in the regular ink and putting in sub ink; that’s it. I would suggest an ecotank though because if you go with a regular printer that uses cartridges, you have to block the printer from any future updates. Epson is trying to force people to buy their sub printers instead and do everything they can to disable third party cartridges. You don’t have the problem with the ecotank though.
I probably chose poorly… but I ordered some ink from amazon made by Printers Jack. Had a lot of good reviews so I took a chance. I know there were a couple links earlier but I just wanted to make sure I had the ink by monday when I got the printer.
Yay for you!!! I went with Printerjack ink and I’ve been happy with the color so far, but I think most of them are pretty close in quality. My only regret was not buying some compatible bottles so I could install the ink without having to use the syringes that came with the Printerjack ink. Those syringes were a HUGE pain in the arse to deal with and so slow. I could have emptied out the ink bottles that came with the printer, cleaned and dried them and used those, but that’s a hassle too.
Edited; OK, that’s funny. You must have commented while I was writing. The PJ ink is fine!
I went with InkOwl because that’s the only site that looked legit when I was reading about everything almost a year ago. I am happy I went with them though because their customer support is awesome.
I couldn’t figure out the printer profile stuff since I’m not using Photoshop or the other programs they have profiles for. So they sent me one with instructions on how to add it to my computer regardless of software and otld me if I needed help, they could do a live walk-through with me over the computer.
Then I didn’t print anything for like 5 months and the next time I printed anything, the color was noticeably over-saturated. I was just contacting them to ask if I still had the right profile since I wasn’t sure if I accidentally messed something up, and they ran through the troubleshooting process with me, then decided that the profile they sent me before could be adjusted, and they created a new one based on the results of my troubleshooting.
Now when I print something, the color is really, really close to what is on my screen. The service was great. I’ve even asked them dumb questions like what paper setting am I supposed to use for their paper and they get back to me right away with a good and patient answer.
First sublimation test after getting the 2760 set up, buying some 3 mil lamination pouches… and buying a new heat press because my chinese POS decided to go to the great heat press shop in the sky.
JUST a quick test on a cheap dollar general plaque. Didn’t even bother sizing it right… Just wanted to see what it would turn out like before I add it to the options I can add to projects.
Only real issue I saw was that the printer really doesn’t like to feed that sublimation paper very well. I’ll have to look at that a bit more.
Now I need to try to find a sheet on lamination film to see if I can laminate the boards before I laser cut them… Trimming after the fact in a pain in the butt.
Edit: The staples site has a safety data sheet that basically says “we don’t have to give you a safety data sheet.” Well isn’t that nice of them.
Edit 2 Electric Boogaloo: Most all heat laminate films are PET/EVA/Polyester and should be fine. EVA is Ethyl Vinyl Acetate but that type of vinyl specifically has no chlorine in it. So I think I’m good to go for lasering the living sh… um… I can pew pew the lamination film.
Nice!! Sorry to hear about the cheap heat press though. I’m so close to breaking down and ordering a cheapo off Amazon because I don’t want to wait another 6+ weeks, but then I read comments like yours and I put it off again. I really want to play with a press though.
I was having a LOT trouble with the Asub 125 paper jamming too, but I started using the rear tray instead and so far so good and no more jams. If I run into trouble again I’m going to try the Asub 120 instead.
I just ran to walmart and grabbed a cricut easy press 2 12"x10". It’s nice in its own way.
Does it work? My friend has one, but I recalled her saying her max temperature was like 350 degrees. All my sublimation stuff says it needs to be like 400 degrees. But I didn’t think it made sense since cricut sells sublimation ink sheets I think…yeah…all the cricut stuff still confuses me, but I went to Joann when they were having a cricut shirt sale and bought a bunch of adult sublimatable t-shirts for 4 dollars each.
The press goes to 400. I had no problem at all with the sublimation step. I had a little trial and error on the lamination step but that was on me.
I’m confused about lamination. How does that work? When I think of lamination, remember when the schools used to laminate artwork and stuff for kids to take home to their parents, but it was always flat. How do you laminate a non-flat object? What must I buy to be able to do it at home? Is it permanent? If I could avoid having to buy sublimatable materials from JPPlus, I would really be happy.
Well it needs to be mostly flat. But you just take one of the pouches (the ones I have are 9x12) and just pull it apart. So one pouch makes two sheets. You just laminate before you sublimate. So you laminate first, adhering the lamination film to the substrate. In the case above I just laid the laminate on the wood and pressed it for a couple minutes at 300 degrees. I think it probably should have been hotter. Then you sublimate that after the laminate is completely cooled.
I would also say that you can, instead of using laminate pouches, use polycrylic (either the spray cans or the paint cans). There are a few different methods with that. I have some but haven’t tried that yet. You can actually sublimate on 100% cotton if you use the polycryclic (I think they dilute it in water) sprayed on the cloth first.
Hmm… I have polycrylic spray, but I haven’t used it for sublimation yet. I bought it as one of my many test items to create a PG finish on wood. I saw the spray cans that let you sublimate on cotton and there are sheets now I can print on made to sublimate on cotton, but they were crazy expensive. The sheets were an untestable price. Though now I feel like I need some laminate sheets so I can use my cheap birch to sublimate…and I want to see what they sell so I can sublimate on dark colors…the spray can method uses a white base I think.
I’ve also seen people take white oracal 651… laminate that… then sublimate on THAT… So it’s basically 3 layers, but you can sublimate on any color at that point as you are just sublimating white vinyl.