Gold hunting!

:rofl:

Another part of my background was to frame oval mirrors. A local mirror company would cut the glass for me, and I made ‘Wedgewood’ style frames for them in white/colored frames, cast in polyester resin.
As part of that period of my life, I did investigate ‘fire gilding’ (silver/mercury amalgam) as a possible way of producing my own mirrors !
I had previously worked as a lab technician in a grammar school, and having my hands immersed in a mercury bath was no big deal, when setting up various experiments for demonstrations.
During that period, ‘Health & Safety’ became a new horror show, but as my boss, the head of Chemistry Department put it, “they seem to have overlooked that the vapour pressure of mercury is a function of how dirty the mercury is”.
The regulations were based on pure, clean mercury, nothing like the real world situation. The mercury in the lab would always be covered in a layer of dirt and dust, no matter how often I filtered it.
:upside_down_face:

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Hey John, I can’t remember if you ever tried a htv metallic vinyl like this one: CAD-CUT® Metallic | Metallic Heat Transfer Vinyl | Stahls’

Stahls carries a ton of specialty htv vinyls that are metallic in appearance. They are polyurethane based so should be safe to use in your Glowforge.

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I tried that rabbit hole, but yes as the woman’s expertise was art history, and hands on knowing the techniques, I would guess that Her awareness was pre 1970 when her lectures were in the early 1970s.

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Hi Cynd,
Thanks for all the help you’ve sent. You’re a mine of information !
I’ve been told about htvs, but I’ve not yet investigated them. The fact that they are pu based is good, and a quick look at that site tells me that I can get samples. Excellent.
Regards
John

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Getting good results from combining/inlaying dyesub ‘garnets’ with ‘gold’ htv.
Next problem - there appears to be a small amount of adhesive residue from the carrier film of the htv, left on the surface of the htv foil.
Has anyone got a suggestion of a suitable cleaning method ? The adhesion of the htv to my basswood fan stick looks really good, so I don’t want to use anything that might endanger that !
:upside_down_face:

A bit of hand sanitizer on a melamine sponge? The thickness of the hand cleaner keeps it (a bit if not soaked) from leaving the sponge, but allows it to dissolve adhesive residue.

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Thanks for that tip.
You’ve now sent me down another rabbit hole, checking out magic cleaners and melamine sponges !
John :upside_down_face: :smiley:

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Hand Sanitizers have been my go-to for several years now. There is a variety of alcohol (methanol) that is bad for both hands and acrylic, and I got a hold of some looking for cheap industrial hand sanitizer, but the rest work well for everything but MDF (it dissolves that adhesive too). I discovered that a barely damp melamine sponge will apply a very thin layer of wood glue very evenly on some lamps I am making, for adhering mulberry paper without soaking it. I also found the same issue with hand sanitizer for removing crud from whatever.

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:+1:

Start with a very light touch with those melamine sponges - they are abrasive (not recommended for glossy surfaces for example)

I tried mine on a plastic bottle and it was as shiny as before. It might be about brand or source. It is “grabby” like deck shoes, which is why I “pounce” it applying glue in fragile designs, but is a positive thing wiping crud from an engrave.

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When it comes to solvents I tend to start with the mildest available, then progress to stronger solvents if that doesn’t work.

For me and what I have on hand that would be:

  1. Isopropanol (highest concentration/lowest water content if you need to avoid moisture, like with wood products)

  2. Ethanol (hand sanitizer is a lower concentration example but I prefer denatured alcohol. Unless you happen to have some 200 proof on hand!)

  3. Acetone (dissolves a heck of a lot of stuff!)

  4. If you need a non polar solvent for some reason, I’d try to find heptane or hexane. It’s extremely flammable (actually all of the above are flammable but not as much so as the hydrocarbons).

  5. Next on the list is higher boiling aromatic solvents like toluene or xylene.

  6. Some things will only dissolve in chlorinated solvents. You might find some methylene chloride or trichloroethylene at the hardware store (you tend to find them in paint stripping solutions). There are major health issues with those so only use outdoors.

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Denatured alcohol is frequently mixed with Methanol, that eats plastics, and sucks the life out of wood. Hand sanitizer has extras that keep from eating your hands, and that goes for wood also.

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Slight hiatus, while I glue back the lid on Goldfinger’s right hinge.
Nasty crack sound yesterday, between cutting the last two fan sticks scared the **** out of me !

However, carefully opening the lid showed what the problem was, and momentary horrid visions of having lost my friend were replaced by a dim memory of this happening to many others.
A quick search (thanks ‘Jay’ etc.) and going through his various videos gave me the way forward.
Now waiting for the JBWeld to set (Hey, that’s appropriate!) and we should be back in business. :upside_down_face:

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Just a quick update. Goldfinger is working as hard as ever, with the lid seemingly secure once more,
and the fan, which has taken me about 9 months to gestate, is coming to completion.

The last steps are to combine a fabric stiffener that works with a low tack adhesive and holds the leaf in place, while Goldfinger does its stuff, and cuts me a Celtic lace edge, top and bottom. Tomorrow’s the big day, so fingers crossed !

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I would love to see this fan once it’s done!

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We are all here for this part!

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As promised, here it is.

This fan is not a conventional design, by any means, and was inspired by viewing an exhibition in UK, many years ago, of a hoard of Saxon jewelry.
I wondered what a Saxon jeweler might have come up with, if asked to create a fan (having explained the basic principles of fan making to him/her !).

I have, once before, created a fan where the sticks are all on the front of the leaf, and the upper part becomes decorative, and this is the result.

The sticks are made of 1/32 lime which have two layers of permanent adhesive foil laminated onto them. The first layer is a sheet of oracal 325, bright gold foil cold pressed onto the sticks, and then cut out/engraved in a jig made for the purpose ( I have snapmarks :innocent: ).

Then the ‘garnet’ inserts, which are printed onto a Sublidecal foil as a continuous film over the stick are then cut out, weeded, and transferred to cover the ‘gaps’ in the gold layer., and the sticks are again cold pressed, and left under pressure overnight.

The leaf is stiffened polyester fabric, which I’ve cut to size, and given top and bottom edges a pierced ‘celtic’ knot design, echoed on the engraved front of the guard sticks. (Fortunately, Goldfinger cauterizes the cut edges of the polyester fabric)

The box frame was also made with the GF, and is about 1.5" deep, lined with polyester.
The front lid is glazed with acrylic, and is screwed over the back section.

All in all, about 9 months gestation, Wendy reminds me.
Much trial and error !

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That is beautiful!! So much work! Now what are you going to start on?

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If ere there were an ancient Saxon fan, that would be it, John. Such beautiful and exacting work.

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