Nope… just got them at the depot…think there were like 80 cents…nothing fancy.
I calibrated for my offset. It’s pretty close by eye but I did tests using scores on targets I had printed on paper I had on the bed. After each score I’d adjust the on-screen image using the arrow keys and counted the clicks. I can drop an image dead on something on the bed.
The other way to do it is using a jig to hold the tiles. Score the outlines you need to hit and move the image as needed.
Or run a “corners” test on your bed so you know where the absolute limits are on your bed and you can adjust your image in the design software to zero at the corner. But the limits change with speed of engrave so it’s a bit harder for this approach because you’ll actually end up with multiple marks on the bed to zero to based on engrave speed which would need different offsets in the design software.
I actually created my first proper jig a couple days ago and it works pretty well assuming I don’t mess with the alignment points in the source file.
I do wish alignment was better. Even at the center of my camera it is very off. Also, my camera is blurry throughout the whole image… might just need to clean of residue from smoke or what not.
I calibrated for my offset.
I’m having a hard time visualizing what you described. If you have a moment, any pictures you can share?
Yep! That would be this one, most likely:
And you don’t really need to use graph paper, you can just make crosshairs on cardstock or draftboard or whatever.
I love the images you used! The tiles are great.
I seriously need to raid your image collection. Ha! I just love what you’ve selected.
I love these. Can you pls share where did you get the tiles? Also, did you paint on top of the engraving? Really cool colors there!
Thanks…they are just home depots …think they were 50 cents…,the two that came out kinda blue was a really old sharpie then switched to a new one for the other two.
I’ve seen a few threads on this and decided to give it a try. Got some cheap tiles at Lowes and tried it, the etch worked great with the settings from one of the threads but I can’t ever see doing a second one with the amount of work to color it. Do you let the Sharpie dry first or clean it right after coloring it in? I tried coloring it and then wiping it off right away but it was also taking off the color I wanted to stay. So I then tried to let it dry a bit but then it was very hard to remove. I used baby wipes so maybe that was part of the issue? I read from one thread to use MrClean pads I think.
Get the big FAT Sharpies. Or the oil-based ones. They’ll cover faster!
Oil based Sharpies with the fat tips. Color the whole tile smearing it on. Let dry and then using a slightly damp Magic Sponge rub the tile. It will only take off the Sharpie that’s on the glaze, not the ink that’s in the engraving.
It will take some rubbing but it’s only a minute or two.
Other folks use alcohol but that can wash out some of the engraving.
BTW, if you much up a tile you can soak it in bleach and it will clean out all of the ink and you can repaint it.
Thanks for the suggestions! Used a big Sharpie and let it dry completely then used a slightly damp Magic Eraser and it cleaned right up pretty effortlessly!! I need to now find a box of these Magic Erasers as I only had half of one left from a long time ago.
Walmart has a no-name brand (they’re melamine sponges) next to the Mr Clean ones for much cheaper. Amazon has 100 of them even cheaper I use them for tiles but dry they do a nice job of cleaning unmasked leather ( just did 100 leather key tags today for the local Makerspace). Used 2 sponges to clean them all.
I sure have!!!
The 100 pack from Amazon finally arrived today. Have not yet been down to open the package up but sounds like I need to make a tile run tomorrow! Just also happens to be Home Depot make and take day so good excuse to take the kiddo.
Seems like the new snapmark functionality might help us out… now how to get it activated for my account!
Outstanding!! I’m looking forward to playing with ceramics myself!