I actually have another one already complete that I’ve never posted about, I got ahead of the queue with some of the others.
Stashed, ready to be sent out as holiday gifts. I’ll probably do a family portrait roundup post before I do. It’ll be a good way to keep all the posts crosslinked so that all of the technical details are accessible from one spot.
Holy crap, man, that’s awesome! So much work, but really cool. I’ve been considering trying something similar with that woodworking trick of making a board and then re-cutting it, this is an amazing example!
Seriously, I have zero time to try any over the top cool process, and turn out the most amazing boxes ever.
I find myself thinking about your boxes, thinking about inlays, sanding, sanding, and more sanding. Brass pins, wipe-on poly, etc., etc. seeing the shots of your jigs will only make me think about it more.
Almost like a nightmare, but no, I see your beautiful Davos, and realize it’s really a beautiful dream. :: sigh ::
I promise it isn’t that hard. It’s all about a few guiding principles if you want to try my methods:
Use materials that are as exactly the same thickness as you can get. Sanding down even a hundredth to get the layers flat is a pain (unless you have a thickness drum sander, which I don’t.)
Try to use flat materials, cupping is hard to compensate for if you’re not making a rigid structure like a orthogonal box – it can be tricky to work with cupped materials on these layered boxes.
Get solid on kerf adjustment. I like 0.006" for most hardwoods and stoke-to-path methodology for adjustment.
Flip mate the inlay pieces.
Work quickly with the glue. I use wax paper and a reference surface (a flat stone tile). When you glue up the pocket (Mask your material, use a small paintbrush to fully coat the cut edges and be fairly generous), don’t wait too long to set your inlaid piece into the hole.
– Align it loosely, then use a flat surface (I use scrap BB) to hammer it in flat. [lay inlaid piece, put baltic over, hammer baltic. The inlay gets pushed in evenly, prevents accidental breakage.]
– Wipe off the excess glue, and give it another set of whacks with the hammer directly on the wax paper. You are trying to get the bottom surface dead flat, you want the inlay to match the bottom surface of your surrounding material. That way you only have to sand one side (the top) to even it out.
– Masking is optional but highly recommended here because it lets you bypass a ton of glue cleanup.
Start smaller, and once you get your workflow down you can step it up and do more complex things. It’s really not hard!
We should have a real Tutorials By Users section. Where it can’t be replied to or anything… Just tutorials from users that want to share their expertise, and they don’t need to be bothered by a million questions about it, etc.
I like the questions, I always hope that someone will post something inspired by what I’m writing up; questions seem like a sign that I’ve sparked other people’s imaginations, and I love that.
Also sometimes I’m so jazzed about posting these projects that I might leave stuff out. Questions help make sure I’m being clear. So ask away!