Help designing a stencil

I need some help designing a stencil. A local non-profit would like a stencil of their logo so they can mark equipment, etc that belongs to them. The logo is very simple and I was able to convert the pdf to a vector file in Inkscape. The conundrum I have is concerning how I can make it a stencil and still keep their font. As you can probably tell from the logo, the centers of the “B” and “R” “O” and “A” and the center of the big outside circle will fall out when cut.
brewhouse logo

Is there a trick? Do I just add some “thin spokes” connecting the centers and the outside part of the logo?

If anyone has any ideas, I’d love to hear them. I am definitely not a designer, I just plug through things.

Thanks,
Debbie

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You are correct. No trick, just manually add the “spokes”. You do have design options on how you add them (90° or 45°, etc…)

I don’t think it will work very well with their design. As I see it you have a few options.

  • Modify the logo, change the scale of the elements to be large enough to not make the stencil as thin as a doily.

  • Reduce the number of elements (The two polygons and the initials BHA)

  • Make a rubber stamp instead.

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One really great trick could be a Stamp rather than a stencil. With all the open space a deep stamp could be used far more effectively.

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thanks @bwente and @rbtdanforth. I considered a stamp, but they would like this to be about 17" in diameter and would like to use it to spray paint their logo on metal carts, shelves, etc. I think if I add the “spokes” they could spray paint the logo and then add the areas covered by the spokes with a brush.

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A puddle of paint and a deep cut ~3/8" might work and even when the piece cannot hold such a large mark a 4" dia stamp might be best anyway.

Instead of spokes a U shape or W glued perpendicular can allow the spray to go underneath.

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What material are you planning to use? Design changes may depend on that. For instance, if you use thin, flexible mylar, you will likely have to at least quarter the outer circle and, I think you are pretty much stuck with adding spokes to the B, Rs, O and A. Maybe look at a stencil font to get an idea for the best places to put those and the relative thickness of the spokes (e.g., cut the bumps of the B off flush with the straight back).

If you use something more rigid, like a piece of Draftboard or acrylic or something like that, you might be fine with smaller and fewer spokes (e.g., halving the circle).

At that size, if you want to get fancy, you could probably do it in rigid material without spokes by working in three dimensions. Make small scaffolds that hold the cut out parts in place from above. Then, one would just have to angle the spray paint around the scaffolds when applying it. [Edit: that may be what @rbtdanforth is getting at above.)

Depending on how precise it needs to be (and how careful the person using it is), you could also just make the cut-outs separate pieces and set them in place when you apply the stencil. Even fairly small pieces of Draftboard are unlikely to move from being spray painted over on flat surfaces. That might be perfectly fine for the sort of irregular use you are describing.

Alternatively: there are other tools that might do a better job. In this case, a photo process stencil of some sort might work well. If you don’t have or want to get into creating your own photo silk screens, perhaps a local t-shirt printer would make one for you/them at a reasonable price. There are companies online that will make them (.e.g, https://www.hdstencils.com ) and, there are products that simplify the screen-making process some (e.g., https://ikonartstencil.com/ – though, I think the films they sell max out at 12” in one dimension).

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This logo might be better suited to silkscreen (which is technically a type of stencil). Have you seen the laser engravable emulsion coated screens from Xtool?

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Yes! best answer yet. Lots and lots of “thin spokes” possibly backwards also. Screen thin paper and carefully apply to curved surfaces.

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Can you do the stencil in layers where the first one is the main layer, second one is the ring around it and the centers of the letters?

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It is.

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Love the screen idea.

Looks like it would not be too expensive to experiment with.

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Another thought: cut the design from some adhesive sheet material, perhaps one of the laser-safe HTV products and, apply it to a mesh fabric (like screen printing fabric).

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It’s not a good logo for a stencil conversion. Maybe they could be happy with a modified logo just for this purpose? If it’s marking their equipment it’s not like it’s going on shirts and stickers and so it might not hurt the branding.

Edit: This might be better done as a sticker, with outdoor-rated sign vinyl. Stickers will wear with heavy contact, but so will stencil paint. Then it isn’t a laser project, though.

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Thanks @rvogt I was thinking that too. I’ll let you know if I can work it out.

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Thanks @evermorian. I have some of the HTV and have been wanting to try it. This may be the perfect excuse to give it a try.

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Thanks @GrooveStranger. I have solved a lot of the issues by simply exchanging their font for a stencil font (already designed to work for stencils, imagine that :wink:). Three thin spokes in the large outer circle seem to work for the too.

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I just save as a ping, then “stencil” their font

if they use it they are welcome to send Brews to me, I prefer brown ales which are harder to find these days

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visually the BREW HOUSE font seems small relative to the space and “ARTS”, I would bump that up if I had input. I get they are trying to keep it equidistant to the outer circle, but if you want people to be able to read it from further away…

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A 'pdf" file is a vector file!!!

You can use a 1/8 in. acrylic to cut on a laser printer! I have 3 laser cutter! One has a range of
35" x 24".