I am also a fan of the printed on look versus carving into the material. I feel like the PG settings are a bit hot (for my tastes) in that regard.
My go to starting point for most wood is 1000 speed, 60 power, 225 or 270 lines per inch, convert to dots, and reduce the max dot density down to around 80-85. You can also experiment with increasing the minimum density up to around 10-15.
Beyond that, wood species definitely makes a difference. They all burn a bit different. For example, Baltic birch doesn’t leave a very strong contrasting mark very easily, so to get the darker mark, it usually digs a bit. I used a lot of Revolution Ply (HD, I think?), and I only needed like 35 power on that for decent contrast and the printed on look. Whiteboard/dry erase board (which turns out almost photo realistic!) I like around 500 speed, and only like 15-20 power (since your goal is just to remove the thin white part of the board). Alder is a super contrasty wood.
Another trick you can do on unfinished materials (no poly finish, etc.) is to sand over it with some 220 grit and it will develop more contrast.
Acrylic, I also like lower power since the mark is very high contrast. I don’t need it deep!
Here’s a recent testing one of Rio (while trying to develop some Lightroom presets). This was done on a Universal laser, but still high speed and low power.