How to have a heart attack via watch at breakfast

Are we still talking about the squirrels?

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I think you have pretty much a clean slate and free rein for pics and video of a Pro. Not much Pro specific and not a whole not of new stuff in general lately. Thinker materials like a 1/2" piece of walnut or oak would get some attention. Anything pass through and how well you can continue something after moving it on down the line. Long heavy engrave to test overheating.

But I say, do whatever you want to do! You’ve been waiting long enough.

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Congratulations Jacob. :tada: Looking forward to your posts!

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I can document a little bit today. Anticipating the need for all of the proofgrade I can find, I brought home my samples from MakerFaire goodness.

These three are more than 1 year old (from the first BAMF they attended):

Walnut: This one fared the worst for masking adhesion purposes. The wood is VERY slightly bowed, and the masking hangs over on all four edges (while the other two samples are flush to edge). Not sure if Maple has a tendency to shrink, but it really looks like that is what happened.

Hard to tell which of these two is the Maple and which is the Cherry. Pretty sure the first is cherry. But in both cases, no warping of the masking and still nice and flat.


I have larger sheets of all three woods from the most recent BAMF, no warping noted on any of them, but the maple large sheet ALSO has some wrinkles on the masking, and it appears to have started sliding off of one side.

So, I think whatever finish is used on Maple does not adhere well to the glue used on the masking. Do not stockpile Maple far in advance of using it. But Cherry and Walnut appear to hold up well for a year (in small size at least)

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For the sake of the forum I’ll crank my heat up to 90 on friday when my wife is gone and run a test :joy:

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You would be a legend if you did that @tbelhumer!
32C is exactly the sort of tolerance i would expect from a Pro

If you would not mind posting the results in this thread too

Ok, realy, I could take it out to the camper.
I’d have to have my daughter help but if I can think of an easy way to vent it will consider it. Friday will be the earliest it will happen. I’ll just etch some random plywood rather than burn up proofgrade. Has anyone got a file that would burn for an extended time?

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I could help with that

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Super excited for you!! Im definitely looking forward to your videos!!

Do a couple leaves.

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maybe one of those hilbert curves that were posted the other day?

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Hilbert FTW!!

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Can’t wait for my PRO to arrive! Glad you got your unit and that the recuperation from this kind of heart attack is remedied by UPS!

Package arrived today. Went ahead and manhandled it all by myself to get in place. Went well enough.

Two plastic handles were missing from the main box. And some of the glue on the foam padding had melted and globbed on my pretty Glowforge’s top surface :frowning: But it cleaned off with fairly minimal effort. Also some white powder all over the machine, I assume that is just flecks from the styrofoam-ish stuff that was inside there.

Had to leave the house with only enough time to make a random guess at settings that would cut the Founder’s Ruler on some Cardboard. Failed to guess the cutting power though, so it did not come free from the main cardboard.


Question… anyone know what the little black knob thingy is between the serial number sticker and power button is?

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Safety interlock. You can hook that up to a door switch to cut the machine off if someone enters the room while it’s running. You may want to review your laser safety officer training materials. It’s not just a 20 page PDF, it’s a $1000 value! :slight_smile:

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I did read about the door interlock. Just did not remember any images, and failed to connect the two. I figured maybe grounding since the power supply was on the other side of that wall.

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Okay, I played with the passthrough to make my ventilation solution for the house:

I did ultimately manage to get my Glowforge fully impaled:

But it took a LOT of work to finally happen. Primarily because I was using the absolute thickest material which will work, 0.35" (and the plywood was at least partially warped)

Videos of my initial attempt to push through the front of the machine and straight out the back side: (posting now, but YouTube is busy processing the videos for some reason. No clue how long it will take. They aren’t particularly interesting, just me failing)

My kids assisted with the filming on this failed attempt. My eventual success was not filmed, as I needed to use both hands.

How I finally got it to work, was to push in from the back of the machine, and then drop the front door so I could get a good grip on the rubber flap to pull it inside the Glowforge and lay it on top of the plywood. Once I had the plywood fully settled under the rubber, the rest was quite simple.

Pulling back the rubber:

The scorch mark you can see on the rubber is from me having moved the head while trying to manipulate the rear-flap earlier. That caused an offset in my cut:

But fortunately that led to me answering a question someone had asked in another thread (which I cannot find right now): The minimum distance from out-of-machine material to cut-inside-machine space:

My cut-to-wall distance (not sure this is in the normally allowed cutting area, since I had offset my home position):

My marking of the exterior portion of the wood:

And a measurement (post-tape, which messed up the ability to be accurate… oops):

So, it looks like anyone wanting to cut/engrave an object which grows too large for the passthrough eventually can engrave up to about 1.2 inches away from the engorged/warped section of the material in question.

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8 posts were split to a new topic: Using the passthrough for thicker materials

The only thing I’ve passed through is corrugated cardboard (slightly thicker than 0.25") and had no issues.

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