I just got my brand new pro today, except I don’t think is new… I wish I can add a video… the grill is used and obvious, the top door does not closed all the way, one of the sides touches the side of the pro and the other cant closed all the way… Im paying all this money for a used one?.. I was afraid of this as I seen other people with this problem… I need someone to contact me ASAP…
They all get tested before shipping, so there’s frequently some residue from that. The door not closing is usually because the surface it’s on is not completely flat, so the frame is twisted. Try slightly lifting each corner in turn while opening and closing the door to see where it needs to be shimmed. Usually just a few thicknesses of paper is all it takes. (Mine is on a Formica countertop, and still needed a little adjustment. Perfectly flat is hard to accomplish!)
ok, the door is closing better, was not level… so forget it, I don’t know what im doing
Well it’s good to hear that was solved. Here’s hoping that’s the only hiccup you encounter. It will be a bit of a learning curve to use but you will get it. Any time you run into trouble be sure to search this forum and you will find answers for everything you can imagine.
Welcome! I hope you get setup and start enjoying your Glowforge very soon. You have already fixed one “problem” and we are here to help if you hit another snag. None of us knew what we were doing when we unboxed our first machine. It is bigger than expected, and kind of intimidating. We gulped and moved forward. We are here to help.
And to be entirely fair, some machines lids do not sit fully flush, even when they’re level. I’ve taken my machine apart, otherwise I’d show you that my lid is flush in the front and back, but the center has a bow to it, it never affected its use. If you go into the machine with concerns and anxiety, you’re definitely going to find things that cause you concern.
Once you’ve used the machine more and more it’ll be a lot more comfortable to use. There are plenty of people willing to help here, but more importantly, you’re going to want to familiarize yourself with the tutorials available, especially the links under this section:
Many of us had similar concerns, and the years that we’ve had our machines have made us confident in our skills and knowledge, but it did take many of us a decent amount of time to get to where we are, as well as reading up on the plentiful amount of knowledge posted to the forum.
As far as I know every machine has that bow in the lid. Unless it has been redesigned since the start of production. Mine does. Don’t know whether it was intentional or not.
My second machine doesn’t have a noticeable bow, so they’ve definitely remedied it, at least mostly. And my memory was skewed, my taken apart machine also doesn’t have a noticeable bow. I only have one side taken apart and just checked. I’m assuming us early order people are so used to the bow that we didn’t think much of it, but yeah, seems to not be a thing as much as it used to be.
When making tempered glass it is not unusual that if one side is cooler faster it creates that bow. It also might be done deliberately so it will be stronger when weight is added. Take a look at concrete beams when they are installed and you will see a similar bow for similar reasons.
I’m fairly confident you’re stepping on my turf right there…
Thanks everyone for the answers! Each Glowforge unit is tested on a flat surface. Many tables are not perfectly flat, which can create some friction when the lid closes. This is not harmful and does not require any changes. If you would like to improve it, however, try inserting a spacer - for example 20 sheets of copy paper - under the center of the printer. If that doesn’t help, try moving the spacer to either edge. It may require some experimentation, including more or less paper, to find the arrangement with the least friction when it closes. I’m going to move this post in case @thewoodmama has anything else they want to ask.
Flat is more important than level.
Floors are not glass-flat. You will find that a 4 legged chair that is stable in one position has a tiny “rock” to it in another. So even a table or piece of furniture will telegraph that difference to the top.
A small deviation is all it would take to cause the case of the laser flex and make the lid rub. I just put my knuckles on the table and use my fingers to slowly lift one corner at a time until the lid rub is gone. That’s where you need the shim.
This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.