Incorporating GF materials into a 3d print, literally

[High_Latitude]

Thanks so much. On to the ballon, or dirigible actually, cause I like the word.

Back to the GF window, for the graphics and basic layout.

I engraved and cut the initial one with a rectangle outer frame and went with Black Light Acrylic paint -

But as I was making the ‘frame’ it just looked so, rectangle…

So I decided to go with an oval instead.

I’m going to like this much more I think.

Back to paint. And I’m doing the ‘back’ engraved area, which I ran on two passes at HD graphic. So it’s nice and deep into the Acrylic, giving a nice opacity and non-blotchy look to the paint. (Which looks super crappy when it’s too thin on acrylic.

Let it dry while I’m working on the new oval frame in 3d.

Oh this could be really cute. And I made the overall thickness a little less as well, now a total of 7mm or about 1/4 inch. Find the transition layer like the spider one, and start the print.

Due to the clouds and sun, the acrylic was just proud of the last layer. Which is clearly a danger zone. I absolutely should have redone it with a bigger gap, but this is just a test, and hopefully I won’t break anything. So let’s go with it.

The extrusion head was clearly touching the acrylic on that first layer, sort of smearing the plastic around the print path instead of laying down a nice bead. But it didn’t appear to be hurting anything so I just let it go. And the result -

What a lovely little thing this is. The first layer on top of the acrylic is pretty rough, from the smearing, as noted above. But the effect of the acrylic is really special, and hard to show with a picture.

And I could see making the outer frame ring half the width, mabey. And ‘ironing’ the surface would make it super smooth. But for what it is, I’m very pleased. Oh ya, and how does it look in black light - Bam -

The yellow (sun) filament fluoresced a little. The white clouds none at all. But man do the colors pop even being on the underside of the acrylic. I will absolutely employ this technique in the future.

HL

[deirdrebeth]

Love it!!

[ellencadwell]

Love it! And I like your little florescent tiny crate too!

[evansd2]

This is all very cool, and an interesting proof of concept. Now that you’ve had a minute to sit with it and think about the process maybe you can answer a couple of questions.

How long did the prints take? The overall process minus the painting?

How strong does it feel? Do the layers feel solid?

I understand that this is a simple example with simple shapes, do you think this offers a significant advantages over a more traditional inlaid and layered approach? Again, this is a simple set of shapes but it’s not hard to imagine how each of these forms could be laser cut (presumably in a fraction of the time). Are there advantages to using other kinds of filaments over using acrylic as the framing in this specific project?

I can see how this could make some pretty cool 3d-effect frames that would be difficult to do on the laser, intriguing stuff.

[pubultrastar]

Awesome. First time I’ve seen this technique. I’ll have to try it!

[High_Latitude]

@evansd2

How long did the prints take? The overall process minus the painting?

How strong does it feel? Do the layers feel solid?

I understand that this is a simple example with simple shapes, do you think this offers a significant advantages over a more traditional inlaid and layered approach? Again, this is a simple set of shapes but it’s not hard to imagine how each of these forms could be laser cut (presumably in a fraction of the time). Are there advantages to using other kinds of filaments over using acrylic as the framing in this specific project?

Greetings evansd2 -

Thanks so much, and I have been thinking about it. (long answer)

1. The Blimp oval cutout is 90mm x 120mm - or about 4" x 5". The engrave (2 passes at HD) took a little over an hour on my GF Plus. The 3d Print is 100mm x 130mm with the time to print shown on the slice -

So that took 1 hour and 11 minutes to print and cost about $.93 in filament. That’s on ‘standard’ 3d print speed. There’s a ‘Sport’ and ‘Ludicrous’ mode to print even faster, but I’m new to this so I haven’t messed with those yet.

2. Does it feel strong / solid? I’ve done numerous prints now where I’ve switched filament colors by layer. The layers always line up and hold together well. The piece isn’t under tension or being flexed, but ya, it’s pretty solid. I printed with a standard 15% infill. Which you can see holding up to a light -

Remember, that bottom ‘layer’ is only 5mm thick total, less a 2.8mm indent to hold the Acrylic. Considering the ‘top and bottom’ are solid printed at .4mm each (2 layers of .2mm), that cross hatching inside is actually only 1.8mm thick!

You could print the whole thing at 100% infill and the piece would be (literally) solid. Add ironing to the surface layers to smooth it out nice and here are the slice results -

It would take 2h9m to print and cost about $1.29 in filament.

3. The filament I’m using is standard PLA. Based on the cost, if you switched to a more ‘robust’ or weatherable material such as PETG or PAHT, that would increase the filament $ about 50-70%. So still not terribly expensive given its size. There’s also ‘silky’ filaments with a super smooth & shiny look that is also within that 50% cost increase range, and it would look really nice.

4. I would also point out, with the standard 15% infill and no ironing, if you printed 4, there’s less waste for filament changes, and the time to print (each) goes down. Reducing the cost to $.85ea, and the time to 3h32m for 4 on standard speed.

5. Yes, I could have done this project layered / inset with various acrylics, doing everything on the GF, and just epoxy it together. I’ve done plenty of those. But one thing I’ve noticed when doing that is various colors of acrylic are always varying thicknesses. So by the time you sandwich 4 or 5 different colors in various layers, you (I) always end up with layer gaps. Which granted could also be from my own inexperience / impatience. Whereas this has a super tight, completely enclosed feel to it. Plus, those tiny little sun rays, cut in acrylic, good luck finding them after cutting in the GF.

“I can see how this could make some pretty cool 3d-effect frames that would be difficult to do on the laser, intriguing stuff.”

6. Agreed, and there are certainly advantages / disadvantages to each method of creating something - Laser vs. 3d print. I just find it an interesting challenge to use both, in an effort to make something which has a greater satisfaction than the sum of its parts, so to speak, and / or create something unique which can only be achieved using both.

7. Bottom Line - One interesting thing with the 3d printer is that you can easily work at a .2mm layer height scale. So I’m looking forward to my Michaels putting out their eco-thin (Aura) acrylics. I really want to try cutting multi layers (of 1.6mm material) on the GF and sandwich them inside a .4mm shell. This REALLY reduces the overall thickness a piece can be, while still retaining multiple layers. I just wish I was a better artist.

8. Going beyond - Along the same lines at 7 - I’m also experimenting with 3d printing thin material and cutting in the GF, just as you would construction paper. This example is .2mm yellow (7.5mils), .4mm magenta, .6mm Blue and .8mm white.

Which would allow me to sandwich with construction paper, foil, etc… Adding another source material to my creative options. All the research I’ve done suggests PLA is pretty benign to laser cut, although I don’t intend to do much of it, at all, atleast with the GF. I’m guessing an AURA is in my future, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use that with this thin PLA.

Thx.

HL

[evansd2]

Awesome writeup, thanks.

So the clouds and sun were 3d printed?

As for #1, seems like these things could be done in parallel so really no overall time lost there. You run the 3d print while the gf is engraving and you’re all set, yeah?

[High_Latitude]

Yup, sun and clouds were 3d printed - a benefit of having the AMS (automatic filament switcher) on the 3d printer.

I couldn’t really engrave and 3d print the pieces at the ‘same’ time because the acrylic had to be cut and painted before the 3d print reached the layer I had to insert it. I’m slow at painting, and 3d modeling…

So I basically, did the GF design, and started the acrylic on engrave. During the hour the GF took, I designed the 3d piece. So just about the time the engrave was done, I was able to start the 3d print, take out the acrylic, get it painted and masking removed in time to insert into the print. So not much downtime in the workflow overall.

The other nice thing about this technique, once the acrylic is inserted and the 3d print resumes, it’s basically done from a labor standpoint. No gluing, sanding, or further assembly required. Mabey a few wispy 3d print strings to wipe off or nip with an exacto. But that’s it.

On a side note. I just went to Michaels and they finally have the Aura and new eco-thin materials out. They even had an Aura on the floor for sale, which was nice to see. I successfully avoided buying it, for now. I picked up a sheet each of eco-thin black and orange, so should be fun to try it out. I’ve scheduled a camp trip for the long weekend, so probably won’t get to do much more for a while.

Till then…

[High_Latitude]

@ellencadwell

Love it! And I like your little florescent tiny crate too!

Thx! The milk crate was from the @odzicari post from March '22 - 1.5" Milk Crate

Every GF person should make a milk crate, the plan is in the thread.

That plan should be adjusted for the new eco-thin materials and reposted, especially given the new Aura users. I might even give it shot as Lightburn practice. I’d make more with this Eco-Thin plastic just to have a few more. They are super handy, my kid uses theirs for jewelry findings to this day.

[linefeed]

It’s contagious!

(Background: friend of mine has chickens in her back yard.)

I ran across this sign on Thingiverse, designed as a 3D print. I brought those .stl layers into TinkerCad and I was able to turn around and spit them back out as .svg files (of course, when I went to make it, I found that I didn’t have enough red or yellow acrylic left…)

The result is stacked. A laser-cut wood background, 3D printed yellow and red layers, then back to acrylic for the black and back to 3D printing for the white:

[ellencadwell]

@High_Latitude - I have made several of them. I love those little crates! I also made a couple of the stackable small milk crates hanging stands from the catalog, although I use one of them to hold all my ribbons for sewing. But I use the other for the crates.

@linefeed - love it! I’ve looked at Thingiverse, but I don’t have a 3D printer and don’t know how to convert .stl files to .svg. That would be great to hang on our chicken coop door! (And we just added 8 more little chickens to our flock, which are now out in the coop and run with our older chickens. Such fun!

[High_Latitude]

@linefeed - Pretty slick. Converting SVG to 3d (at exact scale) is so satisfying.

@ellencadwell - Very fun!

One more little experiment - I call it the Cookie - Just a little thumbwheel to help choose your dessert.

I used Premium subscription ‘Add Artwork’ and engraved on a scrap piece of Aura friendly 3mm Light Maple Plywood, at about 40mm diameter.

Banged out a Tinkercad sandwich housing for it.

And Bling -

Cupcakes are good

Mmmm, cookies…

I didn’t put any effort into smoothing the surface or anything, as it’s just for fun. This could be made amazingly thin now that I know it works. And you could even do it two sided I suppose.

A fun afternoon project would be to make the disk look more like a cookie, with bites out of the sides to spin the wheel, and some multi color sprinkles on top of course.

HL

[linefeed]

@ellencadwell

I’ve looked at Thingiverse, but I don’t have a 3D printer and don’t know how to convert .stl files to .svg.

It doesn’t work with EVERY model, but things like this are pretty simple. After you import the .stl into TinkerCad, you can slice the model to a specific level by adding a “hole” that will erase any unused parts they cover. When you merge those “holes” with the model, you end up with a new part that you can then export as .svg. You can easily make a stacked model by creating TWO “holes” spaced 1/8" apart, then moving those two “holes” up or down 1/8" at a time over the original model.

[ellencadwell]

Thanks @linefeed. I’ll have to play around with it.

@High_Latitude - you’re just having a great time with this stuff, aren’t you! I’m so jealous!! Maybe next year I’ll check into getting a 3D printer. Can’t swing it this year.

[High_Latitude]

Totally, these experiments are quite enjoyable. Due to the start of school, and other obligations over the last few weeks, I’ve not been in a position to start a ‘large’ project. So adding some techniques and materials options to my tool belt is what I’ve had time for. Plus I’m still in the Honeymoon phase with the 3d printer.

Next week my schedule clears for a couple weeks, and the next big project could begin. I’m still not exactly sure what it will be, but I have a fairly solid idea on design and materials. I may start a Post for assistance in hashing out some options for technique and aesthetic detail. And chronicle the project as it progresses, instead of waiting until it’s done, like my previous ones. Might prove interesting?

In the meantime, I’m now working on a sample of the technique, component construction, and materials, I’m thinking of using in order to get some feedback. So could be interesting, overly ambitious, or just not practical - the jury is still out. But I am pretty sure it’ll be different, as that’s what I seem to be good at.

Thx.

[ellencadwell]

Well it will certainly be fun for us to see what you do, whether during or after you do it!

[High_Latitude]

Greetings -

Thought I’d do an update for the latest ‘experiment’, along the same lines inserting acrylic into a print. This time, I wanted to see if I could print ‘on’ fabric. I figure Felt has probably the best shot as it’s basically a kind of plastic, and mabey the 3d print filament will melt into the surface and stick. One way to find out.

I GF cut a 50mm square of felt to be the test piece.

I put some 2-sided tape on the back to stick it into the ‘mold’ and get it to stay in place long enough to print on.

I made a short ‘tray’, with now floating elements on the first layer above the support base, and on top of the felt. Hit print.

So as before, once the filament change starts, I inserted the felt

And the printhead comes back in blue to start the graphics on top of the felt.

I was using PLA, the standard (low melting temp) filament, and it was clearly not hot enough to melt INTO the felt. I didn’t even let it finish because after just the second layer, well, the photo speaks for itself.

I have some PAHT-CF filament (hotter melting temp) already open and on-hand so let’s give that a shot. These hotter melting temp filaments are far more limited in colors, and I only have black, so I cut new squares in yellow felt.

And here we go. Wait until the tray is printed to the right level, insert the felt, and see what happens.

This looks promising. The stars were ‘pointed’ and super thin, which is causing them to not be filled in all the way. But the letters look pretty good.

It’s done, and let’s see if the graphics melted in and stuck.

Not perfect, but not bad either. The letters were .7mm high, so only a few layers. But they did stick, which was the point of the test.

I would call this experiment mostly a success. I think the felt was a little thinner than the gap I made for it, so the letters and stars were more deposited onto the felt, as opposed to being extruding into the felt. And they peel off fairly easy. But I believe with just a little more trial and error, it only gets better.

HL

[High_Latitude]

Hmm, Just thinking of applications, doing some kind of wrap comes to mind.

Now make a surface mesh of 3D Printed plastic -

Export SVG, import into Tinkercad for 3D, and build a jig for it.

Let’s print and insert at the right layer as before.

I modeled it at 1mm thick. But this PAHT is really stiff at even 1mm. So I stopped after just the first (.2mm) layer.

So it’s a little thin, but I designed this one with the felt just a touch proud of the top of the last layer. So the filament is really getting extruded into the material.

It’s adhered pretty well this time. Although the little circles around the holes didn’t stick on target. But I’ll just clip them off. there’s plenty of the plastic still there to hold it together.

And what does it ‘wrap’?

I didn’t overthink the overall length, so lacing wasn’t the best. But again, just practicing something new.

It’s different anyway. You could probably even get away with a single .2mm bead of plastic in a web, or mesh pattern, over the felt. Might be fun.

HL

[bill.m.davis]

Very interesting thought and process. I haven’t heard of anyone else injecting into felt!

I am really wanting a 3d printer, but just haven’t pulled the trigger yet… Just ordered a CNC so my wife might hate me if I bought another “toy” before it even arrives…

[High_Latitude]

So, I wanted to try this wrist band thing again. Decided to go with Brown felt and spray paint to see what happens.

I tried adding some ‘speckles’ engraved for texture. But was unimpressed. Probably just use a soldering iron on it after 3d printing into it for texture and character.

Here we go again, insert felt, and resume.

I’m going with just one layer again, although, probably two layers, and then ironing would ultimately give the best effect.

Interesting, looks like cork.

Just a regular black twist tie works pretty good to hold it together while painting. And the PAHT-CF 3d print filament gives it a great springy wire structure.

My favorite part, Hammered Grey Inside and Hammered Copper outside. Let Us Spray -

About 8 coats of each total. flipping half way and alternating inside and out with the two colors.

If I was going to use it, I’d lace it with twine of course.

Very interesting technique. The 3D print mold is the slowest part, but I could definately cut down its size to speed it up. but it’s still relatively fast, super easy, and super cheap to make these. Size of felt rectangle was 50mm x 225mm.

HL