Tried my first experiment today with Thick Draftboard…a scored pattern, and then a cut for a finger-joint box. The score was beautiful, but the cut was…not great. There was an issue with not cutting all the way through, but (oddly) only when the head was located “up” in the Y dimension, away from the access door and towards the back of the machine. The lower sections of the box cut through with no issue, but the upper ones (near the top edge of the Proofgrade) didn’t cut through at all.
Pics attached, all are oriented with the “up” being the edge that was near the back. Front and back of cuts shown, you can clearly see where the cuts “faded” in power and didn’t go all the way through.
If that were the case, I’d think the cut would be uneven everywhere/not cut cleanly everywhere. This is something else, since the “near” cuts were through, but the “far” cuts weren’t, related to the Y axis.
The lower sections on that look shadowed, which likely means the wood was a little warped. If those sections of the cut fell down, the slight warp was probably what caused the uneven cutting.
In the future, to avoid wasting material, use a pick or a piece of tape to lift a cut section to see if it comes up, without moving the backing material at all.
If it doesn’t come up, send the cut operation (obviously not the scoring part) again, and it will finish the cut. Do not move anything in the bed or on the screen, even if it looks like it’s a bit off. It will finish the cut exactly where the first one was as long as you don’t move anything.
If you have material that is visibly a little warped, you can slow down the default cutting speeds by about 10-15 points and generally get through the material in one pass.
I live in a very humid environment, and everything warps here to a certain degree. Those tricks are what I use.
The “pick to see if the pieces move” bit is a lot harder with the “thick” proof grade. Even the bits that were cleanly cut didn’t move freely until I put a bit of force to them, just because of the amount of material friction holding them in. But on those upper sections, it clearly didn’t go all the way through at all…
Just some things I have noticed on mine when it is doing a lot of engraving/scoring the heat can make material that was flat start to ‘flex’ a bit. Leather especially.
I have taken to using magnets all the time to cover whatever I can whenever possible.
I keep having major issues with cutting, mostly on the thicker draftboard. I use the hold down pins and even some tape if it looks warped. Generally most of the pieces arrive with slight warp and I ALWAYS weight the stack down with a very heave piece of granite. Still, after that, I cannot seem to get a PG cut to go through any of the draftboard!! Frustrating since I try to use that for “samples” to show clients. I’ve resorted to cutting up nice, heavy Amazon boxes to use for samples because I cannot rely on the PG Draftboard and I cannot afford to keep buying them. :-’(
You’ll want to open your own case about that rather than trying to revive a year-old one. They very likely won’t even see this otherwise.
Your materials are guaranteed. You shouldn’t be wasting any $ on it. If something fails due to a failure of the machine or the material, let them know and they should be able to fix you up and credit you for the failed material.