Yes, but on most masks you will still need a carrier sheet to transfer the mask. If you spray the mask and carrier, you’ll still get some transfer to the unmasked glass. Your idea may work in very simple shapes wilt no loose interior parts. Even so, the HTV material is very thin and may be hard to apply without a carrier…
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Ah, the perils of speaking from inexperience >< That makes sense. Thank you.
I was talking to someone at work about the new increase in the max material (he ordered a Glowforge as well) and he brought up a good point. With the tray, you can cut/engrave material 0-0.5" thick. With the tray removed, wouldn’t the limit be 1.5-2" thick?
If you are at 1" thick, wouldn’t you be outside the max range for the focal point with the tray removed? Or am I missing something? Here is a picture that I think illustrates my concern. @dan @tony?
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I had kind of assumed we would need to set the 1 inch item up on something to get it into the engraving zone.
(Might be wrong.)
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Yea, I think that’s the solution. Guess I’ll have to make some new tray’s.
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Just put some of that free Proofgrade™ material to good use. 
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Remember, ikonics has a laserable mask for sandcarving( they call it that now instead of etching or blasting). I saw it and picked up some samples at the NBM show, similar to the photo resist film. You laser the film then sandblast and it only etches/carves/engraves where it was lasered. However, the one drawback currently is that, unlike the photo resist, this film is placed ON the substrate before lasering. This means you can do only flat pieces (with the GF) due to no rotary attachment. But it will help etching portraits, plaques, etc deeper by sand"carving" deeper images.
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I’ll definitely be trying some of that. It would be all the better if I could use my scraps from other projects but it’s also good to have a fall-back option. Thanks.
I remember it being said specifically at one point that you would have to prop it up to be in the correct range, so you’re right.
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For my K40 I have columns/stacks of legos that I place in the open bed use to set the substrate at the particular height. Relatively cheap (I bought a bag of the “clones” at Targets $1 area) and they have various thicknesses. Not elegant but works and since they interlock, it’s sturdier than stacking scraps or similar items. If laser cuts to them it may scorch or melt them slightly, but it’s already defocused and not really a big deal.
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Looks like Lego blocks are primarily ABS - that’s not too good for lasers is it?
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That shouldn’t be an issue. You’ll only need something like Legos as support when engraving, so the laser won’t reach the Legos.
Edit: Just looked up the safety of ABS in a laser. Looks like there isn’t anything particularly hazardous about it. It just doesn’t cut very well and leaves a nasty smell.
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I got a nice bit of info from this website. They seem to do abs all the time.
http://www.cutlasercut.com/laser-cutting-materials-laser-engraving-materials/laser-cutting-abs-sheet
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As everyone here has correctly concluded, yes - you’ll need to shim up material that doesn’t reach tray height to get the right result.
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I was thinking the same as @cleetose, that if you need to prop something up to get in focal range, you have no worries about striking the support piece with the laser. But if the item being engraved has thin spots, or even complete holes, then there is some chance to still strike all the way through.
For anything solid though… support can be absolutely anything stable and flat enough for your needs.
exactly! I’ve barly touched the legos/supports with the laser cutting through and when I did it really didn’t seem to be an issue. Again, if you need solid support you can also just lay something on the supports and then your object on that( I have a smaller piece of steel mesh for that). I have the mesh bed, but on the K40 i found it easier to take it out and just support my substrate in the bed.(whether it is cardstock or ¼ stock. I also finally added air assist nozzle so still trying to get a decent focus. 137 days until Xmas! (136 if East or Central US) 
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Thanks - that looks like an excellent material guide for laser cutting & engraving!