Lid doesn't close all the way


#1

Not like the grinding pinching itself issue. ( I had that, but I shimmed one corner to correct it )

The lid doesn’t sit flush with the top of the glass. It sticks up about nearly an 1/8th".

Anyone else have that issue?


#2

That’s normal. They’re going to make it awesome soon.


#3

The bow in the glass that you see in the middle on each side of the lid is on every machine. The lid glass should be relatively flush in the front on both sides.


#4

Try putting a six pack of beer on the lid while you are waiting for the print to finish. :call_me_hand:t4:


#5

Or a bottle of your favorite red wine


#6

That not good. I hope the my pro is not a hoop tee glowforge. It won’t be a happy day.:):upside_down_face:


#7

Exactly. At the front and back it is near flush, but there is a wicked bow running from the center line out to the front and back.

That’s BS IMHO. The demo’s that Tested had etc were flush. I’ve run into a bunch of fit and finish issues with this thing and I’ve only played with it for a couple hours. Paint scraped off, etc.

Not really happy with that.


#8

Check the lid with a straight edge, I bet it’s actually flat, and the bowing is in the side panels.


#9

Different height, side in relation to lid, is a build feature. Try this search

https://community.glowforge.com/search?context=topic&context_id=13637&q=Bowed%20lid&skip_context=true

about lid bowing and there is lots of info. Also raises the possibility of cosmetic defects (different issue) in production units at the moment.

If the Tested Video is the one from almost a year ago, that was an early pre-release and there have been changes.

Are the prints turning out the way you want them too?


#10

So far yes, though the smell of smoke around the lid is more than I’d like. Makes the entire basement smell like smoke.


#11

Are your prints coming out good?

I would not get too overtly concerned with slight imperfections.

I would be more worried about the results of the print.

If it is printing good and you are happy with the results. A slight cosmetic imperfection in the machine should not matter.

But if you are not happy send it back.

Got any pictures?


#12

Well…I’m having fitment issues for sure. I cut the puzzle, and it’s sloppy, not very good fitment at all.


#13

Assuming you mean the kerf between two puzzle pieces? If you are cutting standard puzzles with the pieces sharing a cut line, even a very small kerf will make the puzzle loose. Only way I can think to do that would be to cut each piece individually and adjust for kerf. Commercial puzzles have the equivalent of almost zero kerf.


#14

If there is no restriction in the exhaust, then every crack in the case would be pulling air in by design. If there is no restriction then question the integrity of your exhaust system beginning with the clamp that secures the flex hose to the machine.
I have a rather elaborate exhaust run, and after ensuring seals at every joint there is zero odor.


#15

Yeah, I just cut the one from the catalog as a test.


#16

I think it may be occuring once I pop open the lid. I’m not sure why the fan shuts off RIGHT after the print job. It should run for another minute or so. I’m about to just install my 440cfm vortex inline. It’s FAR more quiet, I just wish I could shut the internal fan down. It’s WAY too whiny.


#17

Laser cut puzzles are basically going to be the similar to traditional puzzles cut with a scroll saw and fit “looser” than those cut with dies, since the die is basically just slicing rather than removing material, and dies smoosh and compress the chipboard at the same time, further narrowing whatever kerf exists. Laser cut and scroll saw cut puzzles are more dependent upon thicker pieces and the interlocking design (which is why they were designed with interlocks in the first place) to achieve good fit.

Additionally, the default PG automagic cut settings might not be the perfect settings for minimal kerf. I haven’t done any with wood but cutting with chipboard, I had to really experiment with the power and more importantly, the focus point, on a face down image to get barely noticeable cuts on the bottom side of the material.


#18

That makes perfect sense. I just thought there for a second that a laser cutting the width of a human hair, and the fact that the project was actually in the catalog, that it would work precisely like a regular puzzle. Thought my Glowforge was defective. LOL Still, you’d think with a kerf THAT small and precise of a lazer, it SHOULD be able to make a puzzle like a traditional one. /shrug


#19

It’s super thin, but you’re still removing material from both sides of interlocking pieces.

You can see where I experimented a bit with this:

First attempts:
https://community.glowforge.com/t/cont-im-puzzled-chipboard-and-photo-paper/11458?source_topic_id=13637

Second attempts and improvements:
https://community.glowforge.com/t/chipboard-and-puzzles-and-varnish-continued-again/11603?source_topic_id=13637


#20

WOW! You’ve done a GREAT deal of messing with this process! You’re threads are wonderful, and your results amazing.

I’ve been sticking primarily with the proof grade stuff thus far, haven’t tinkered under the hood yet, doing manual settings. Gonna be a bear I know it. Proof grade is SO nice not to have to worry about it. Though expensive. I ended up making 78 sheets of 12x20 1/8" Birch Plywood WITH masking…so essentially proof grade material, and it only cost me about $1.25 per sheet, with masking.

Huge difference from the $10 a piece from Glowforge.