lots of us use this.
http://www.uscutter.com/TransferRite-Medium-Tack-582U
pick up a squeegee or if you have a really good burnishing tool, that can work too. you’ll want to press it down and push the air bubbles out.
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Any recommendations on a burnishing tool?
i have some of these from the same site (also available on amazon, i think).
http://www.uscutter.com/GAP-ScrapeRite-Double-Edge-Plastic-Razor-Blades-Holder-w-5-blades
but you can get away with an old credit card or anything else that has a firm edge.
Honestly, here’s what I use.
I’ve got a 3" one and an 8" one, and they work fantastically.
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Sooo, with the GF finally arriving today (hopefully!) I’ve been sorting and stacking some of the materials that were piled up on its future work bench to make room for it! I have plenty of cardboard (thanks, IKEA kitchen and recent house remodel!) and a few nice objects to engrave or build on. My main haul, however, came from two sideboards that we took apart when emptying my parents’ house after they moved to a retirement home. Really nice 60s Danish design, beautiful things, but the outer parts had been badly damaged with years of wear and tear and damp and we had nowhere to stock them. So I pulled them apart and kept the solid wood parts.
My grandparents, who originally bought the furniture, always said it was solid teak, but after discovering that the outer parts were just chipboard with a teak veneer, I’m wondering if what’s left is teak at all. It’s a beautiful colour, and it seems to be the same colour all the way through rather than varnished or stained. Any thoughts from the wood experts out there?
Also, as I have no idea what was used to treat or finish the wood, I’m wondering if it’s safe to laser…
Engraving safety: probably?
Cutting safety: slightly less probably?
Sometimes glues in fiber/particle board can have some unhealthy fumes, but most likely the risk is to you, not the Glowforge. Good ventilation should make it ok to cut, providing that it’s thin enough.
As always, this is at your own risk! Beware bad fumes and fires.
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What settings do you use to cute the hardboard? I’m having trouble - fluctuating between a burn and not cutting through - would love your settings.
Does the glowforge cut your fabric and leather? I’m looking to do the same thing and was hoping I might hear how various fabrics cut for you - any words of wisdom?
I’ll have to check my notes when I get home.
That’s where I get all my acrylic. Setup with the bin of scraps at ~$0.50/piece is unbeatable.
They also have good stuff to cut and variety as well.
I usually get out of the store with $40 and a ton of stuff to burn 
I’m new to the GF and I’m loving this site. Thank you for sharing.
Hello @ed1. I’m new to GF and I’m wondering if you have an answer to this question you posted about the protective covering. Thanks in advance!
Hi did it work well with your machine?
Nice thread
What settings do you use for those cutting boards?
Yeah, can you please let us know how it cut?
This is a really old thread. But if you browse the forum a bit more, you’ll find that Baltic Birch Ply (which is not the same as Birch ply) is a favorite material for a lot of us. As long as you pin it down to make sure it’s absolutely flat, it cuts well, sands easily, takes paint nicely, etc.
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SOMEONE PLEASE!
I am not good at photo shop & would like to PAY ANYONE who is willing to design ONE (1) custom draftwood template for my company!!
We would also like to pay someone to edit or add to an EXISTING GLOWFORGE TEMPLATE!
PLEASE ANYONE!
If you mean a template from the glowforge design shop, or even one of their free downloads, this is not allowed by their licensing. If you mean a template made by your company or commissioned by your company I’m sure someone will DM you soon.
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